Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
Routes in The Diedre Area
|Budapest T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Cooney - Russell T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Diedre T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Last Temptation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13|
|Lousianna Bubble Bath T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Underground T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Wez, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Type:||Trad, 250 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Bayard Russell and Dana Drummond, June 2005|
|Page Views:||2,639 total, 23/month|
|Shared By:||bayard russell jr on Aug 14, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThe Underground is a sneaky colection of high quality, 60'-ish, sustained 5.11 pitches. We did the FA the same day the London Underground was bombed in June 2005. Except for the second half of the first pitch (Deleightmaker) it is all new terrain. A good addition to the other sustained multipitch 11d's that grace the cliff.
LocationThe Underground begins just right (ten feet) of Diedre.
1)Climbs a bolted, right facing corner. Scramble up fifteen feet to the first bolt and a 5.11 bolder problem to gain the corner, a couple of pieces of gear along the way. Slab climb up to buckets and a belay ledge shared with Deleighmaker.5.11c
2)Climb the right hand of the two corners, traverse right at the corner's end at a horizontal break and scramble to a belay ledge in Karen's Variation. 5.11d
3)Head out right from the belay to a rising left to right traversing seam. Follow the bolts to the crack. Belay on Diedre's Blueberry Terrace. 5.11c
4)Locate a lone bolt directly above the right side of the Blueberry Terrace, twenty feet right of Kinesis's lone bolt on a subtle arete. Scramble off the Terrace and onto a small ledge below a shallow, open book corner. The corner is short and 5.8R. Follow cracks and face holds to the two bolt anchor on top of Kinesis. 5.11c
Either lower off and belay from the Blueberry Terrace or continue to the top. There is a rappel anchor, typically, on a tree off the right side of the Blueberry Terrace - a single 60m rappel to the ground. If you only have one rope there is also a three pin anchor below and right of the next ledge down that will get you to the ground.