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A Dream of White Horses
5.8,
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches,
Avg: 3.8 from 24
votes
FA: Ed Drummond & Dave Pearce
International
> Europe
> United Kingdom
> Wales
> Anglesey
> Gogarth
Access Issue: Seasonal closure for bird nesting.
Details
Description
UK rating is HVS 4c. If you know how to read British ratings that will tell you all you need to know about the seriousness of this route.
Beautifully named and a true North Welsh classic - and not even in the mountains of Snowdonia. Made famous by a spectacular picture in one of the Royal Robbins Rockcraft books. If you're in Wales, do this route. Although if the waves are big the climb may be wet. The route is most likely typically wet in a few locations so expect damp rock.
Be sure to rap off the pronounced tooth of rock. You can establish your rap line to a block before it and is recommended so as to reduce your exposure to reaching this tooth. If you stay on an established and worn path to the tooth you are in the correct rap location.
It takes a traversing line leftwards across the huge and exposed Wen Slab for a few pitches on good holds with the odd tricky bit here and there, then makes a spectacular traverse across the arch (or Zawn) and up onto the grass.
When I did way back when I used all nuts, but I'm sure cams will work too - the rock is good.
Cams from Aliens to #3 BD work well. Small to medium hexes are useful for belays.
Location
Rap down the sea level, climb a steep groove to the horizontal line.
Protection
trad rack
[Hide Photo] Looking across to Wen Slab from the finish of the climb (photo by Phil Ashton)
[Hide Photo] Leo Dickinson's classic shot of the first ascent.
[Hide Photo] nearing the pitch 2 hanging belay and showing the juggy nature of the pitch. Good fun.
[Hide Photo] David Kozak on final pitch. Image by Andy Gresh
[Hide Photo] David Kozak on pitch two traverse, photo by Andy Gresh
[Hide Photo] Slab climbing on pitch one or two, depending on how you do the route. This climb is everything you could dream of - just 'brilliant'.
[Hide Photo] Starting the last pitch traverse, yes the camera is tilted a little.
[Hide Photo] A Dream of White Horses
[Hide Photo] The climb finishes by traversing leftwards across the back wall, overhanging the sea (photo by Phil Ashton).
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