Noth'N But a Good Time
Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2 from 1
FA: Glen Griscom and Josh Thompson, July 2008
> Alpine Rock
> Mt Evans
> Tan Buttresses
Pitch 1: Begin up the obvious line. Some creative movement up a system of cracks and corners will lead you to a face. Place some small stoppers in a pegmatite seam. Pull through the face section and gain a huge ledge. Belay at a fixed pin (LA) at a stance directly below a 10 foot thin hands crack in golden rock. 5.10a/b R, 120 feet.
Pitch 2: Climb aforementioned crack directly above the belay. Powerful liebacking will get you through this section. Be sure to place some gear in this crack. At the top of the lieback, step left into the clean cut, grayish corners. Here you will find some thin gear. Stem your way up these corners until you can step *slightly* left into another crack system. Climb this up and into a short (20ft) broken section. At the top of this broken section, you will gain a big, flat ledge, traverse approximately 20 feet right and belay. 5.10a/b R-, 100 feet.
Pitch 3: Climb the obvious dihedral that makes up the obvious right side of the ledge. Start with a short bit of chimneying that leads to a hand and fist crack. Follow this to the obvious big ledge. Belay at the base of a short face/bulge directly below a left-facing dihedral above. 5.8, 70 feet.
Pitch 4: Climb the face directly above the belay, leading to a small roof/bulge. Creative stemming and face moves. I promise there is gear! You'll have to look for it and trust that it's going to be there. Once on top of this section there is a small ledge to regroup on. Next climb up the obvious left-facing, flared dihedral. There is a crack on the left hand wall to aid in upward progress. At the top of the dihedral, there is a small ledge on the right, regroup again, then step back left and pull through a short section gaining yet another large ledge. Head back and to the right a bit and belay to the right of the obvious, loose chimney. 5.10+, 70 feet.
Pitch 5: Climb the loose chimney to the top. This was soloed on the first ascent. 5.4, 60 feet.
Descend by casually walking southwest back towards the Black Wall.
As you hike down the approach ramp for the Tan Butt's, the route is on the first major buttress you come to. Take the obvious, but not great, looking line in the middle of the Buttress. I assure you the first pitch (and the route) is MUCH better than it looks.
1 set RP/HBs. 1 black and 1 blue Alien. Double yellow Alien through #1 Camalot. 1 each #2, 3, and 4 Camalot.
Pitch #4. 5.10+.
Pitch 3. 5.8+.
The general line of the 2nd half pitch #1. 5.10b.
Pitch #2. 5.10a.
Showing the general line of the start of pitch #1. 5.10b.