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Routes in Big Kahuna Pillar

Crossbow Chaos Theory S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Eldorado Coral Club, The S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Glug Glug, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
May It Serve You Well S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Notorious BCG S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Pre-Spice Blow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Racing Babies / Lounging Like a Roman S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roman at the Games S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Take This Brother S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Your Homey Ain't Here Deer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Charlie Kardaleff
Page Views: 3,625 total, 32/month
Shared By: kyber on Aug 9, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


157 Opinions

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Description

the crux begins at the roofs up top although the whole thing is quite sustained. the book had it at 10b/c but i feel maybe 10+ would be a better grade as the top is a little tricky to read and your a bit pumped while doing it. also its quite sharp at top as its a new route (i think)

Location

all these new routes kind of start in the same spot you should get the book!

Protection

18 bolts

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.10b
Franck Vee  
  5.10b
Hmmm - I guess it depends on how you evaluate grades, but you can fashion good rests here & there. So is it sustained - well sections within it are, but it's not a "forced" sustained route from bottom to top. But then one could argue whether or not fashioning rests is a 10- skill or not. So I find it hard to grade, I gave it 10b. I guess my final verdict on it is that the moves themselves are 10a/b and if you're good at finding resting stances it probably shouldn't feel much harder than that. But if you do get pumped it will get to 10+... Aug 8, 2017
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Great climbing throughout. I thought the top bulges, if being consistent with other Ten Sleep grades, felt 11a. Sep 13, 2015
Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
  5.10d
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
  5.10d
Outstanding climbing! Stays on ya til the very top. Jun 4, 2012
EldoFiend
WY
 
EldoFiend   WY
 
This was our favorite warm up/cool down route at the FCR. Awesome moderate, but continous climbing. There is some crappy rock in places, and it hasn't yet cleaned up very well so be careful. But still lots of fun. Apr 12, 2010