Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Merle Wheeler, Joanna McComb, Gary Stiles - 10/1970
Page Views: 5,664 total · 45/month
Shared By: CO_Michael on Aug 8, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

13 Opinions

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Access Issue: Restrictions January 1 - April 30 Details


There are 6 pitches of wonderful climbing.

Start at the toe of the buttress.

5.7 Right facing crack through the brush
5.8 Somewhat of a gully and jam cracks
5.8 Crux
Easy Chimney and slab up to a ridge
Ridge to the summit


This route goes up the most prominent buttress. There are two ways to get down. The steep gully 100 feet to the west of the summit and the notch rappel to the east. The rappel route is proving to be better.


Regular trad gear.


Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
beautiful, classic climb. the crux move seemed much harder than 5.8, however, a bomber #4 camalot can be placed overhead to protect the move. Jul 28, 2010
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Did this route in late May, 1982. Pretty hot... was so dehydrated I was hallucinating.

The description says 1000 feet and grade IV, but that is pretty wild-eyed ... more like 600 feet and grade III. Jul 29, 2010
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
you did it in may???? badass!

yeah, i agree it's not grade iv. Jul 29, 2010
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
Haha...more like "dumb-ass". We thrashed to the base from Oracle highway and got there about noon, totally hot. We summited around 5pm with no water left. Rappeled the gully at twilight and thrashed back in the dark. I lost 10 lbs that day. Jul 30, 2010
Anybody climbed this recently? Dec 15, 2010
David Tilley and I climbed this last November (2010) A bit unpleasent getting my helmet stuck in the jam, but overall a great climb. Mar 7, 2011
mike Herholz
mike Herholz   tucson
Hey does anyone know if this is an old-school rating or a solid 8+? Also does anyone know if there is a lot of loose rock on the wall? Thinking about going up this September and trying to get more beta? Jun 2, 2012
The rock is fine. It's a back country route so don't expect sport area spit polish and gear every 4 feet. Look before you pull is always a good idea on long backcountry routes.
I thought the 5.8+ rating was spot on. As I recall there was only one short bulge section that was 5.8+ with the rest of it a bit easier.
Cresent Crack is a better climb and not much harder IMO. Jun 2, 2012