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Routes in El Dorado

Black Gold S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Brown Smoothies TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ghost Upstairs, The TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Kindergeist T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nuggets S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Olas Negras S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Poltergeist TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Snooze T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jeff Salmon
Page Views: 143 total · 1/month
Shared By: Matthew Geyer on Aug 5, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The first ten feet of the climb are nearly vertical, with incuts and slopers. After that you'll find jugs and good footholds. Your first (and only) protection is twenty feet up, so it's a runout with deck potential. All holds are good ones though.


Snooze is the farthest route on the left of the north side of the El Dorado formation. Belay from the flat area at the base of the other climbs. Begin the climb after scrambling up the slab eight to ten feet past the base of Nuggets.


Place small pro in the flake 20 feet up (backed up with second small piece on adjoining flake), then run it out to the anchors. Set a small nut in the horizontal crack at the base of the climb for a directional before you start.


Doug Roberts had the FTR of this route and he suggests a directional up top would eliminate the pendulum potential when TRÂ’ing off the Nugget anchors. A small cam in a horizontal crack would do the trick. Aug 6, 2008