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Snake Dance
5.13+,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 4
votes
FA: Dave Pegg, 1995
New Mexico
> Albuquerque Area
> Palomas Peak
> (02) The Slab Wall
Description
A boulder problem low, revolving around a terrible left hand 3 finger sloping edge and a very high, bad left foot gains a right facing corner which is followed to a good rest at a two handed jug. Then ascend the finger crack/seam with moves that get progressively harder to a comfortized 3 finger pocket, clip with some difficulty or blow it off, as the feet are bad here and fire the crux pulling the bulge onto the face above. This route has a 3 finger pocket in the middle of the upper section that has seen some work, I'm not entirely sure if it was just comfortized or completely manufactured, I believe the move was done prior to it being altered, but I don't know if a hold was there or not to begin with.
Some have called this route 5.13d/5.14a, but I really don't think it is any harder than 5.13d, though I could be wrong.
Location
Far left route on the slab wall. There’s a tree that’s growing at an angle near the start.
Protection
7 bolts (1 stray bolt just right of the 6th bolt which might be for linking Slab City to Snake Dance with a couple pieces of gear placed in the traversing crack). Anchor with lowering hooks (lowering hardware added 9/2023 by NMMC, provided by ASCA)
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Santa Fe, NM
a burly v9 boulder problem at the start leads to an almost complete rest (a double handed incut jugs in a slaby section). dave pegg used a knee scum to do this crux which timmy fairfield avoided it on the second ascent.
the second part is a probably 13b by itself. Sep 1, 2008