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Routes in Rainforest Boulder (Valley Boulders)

All Purpose V4 6B
Barndoor V3 6A
Bloody Nose, The V0 4
Cat and Mouse V2+ 5+
El Scorcho V6+ 7A
Firecracker V2+ 5+
Firecracker Arete V3+ 6A+
Janet Gets a Wirebrush V3 6A
Never Ending Scrubber V0 4
Pinkerton V4 6B
Pocket Problem, The V4 6B
Pop Tart, The V0 4
Rubber Cement V8 7B
Sharp Arete V3 6A
Valley Girls V3 6A
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Type: Boulder, 8 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 543 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jesse Coburn on Aug 5, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

A powerful problem that starts with the right hand low in the crack, that runs straight up the boulder. Left hand on a small edge on the arete. Use real good feet to power up to a positive crimp. Move left foot to a bad, but sticky foot. Bump right hand up in the crack (crux for me). One last throw to a sloper and the "business" is done. Then top out on good slopers.

Location

Valley boulder on the face that faces the trail. Right hand in the crack and left on the arete. One step left of Firecracker.

Protection

Pad and a spotter would be nice for the last move but not necessary.

Photos

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BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V3
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V3
Sit start right hand in the crack with a good right foot. Pull up, heel hook the arete, and pinch with your left hand. Bump up the crack, then move up the arete to a good crimp. Slip a toe into the crack and stand up to the sloping topout jugs. Hard for the grade. Nov 30, 2008
Lanky
Tired
  V3+
Lanky   Tired
  V3+
Or, start with your right hand in the crack, left on an undercling-ish hold low on the arete, left foot backstep on the hold below your right hand, and basically lay back the crack for 3 moves. Then reach for the sidepull on the arete, bump right hand, grab the lip and top out. Maybe not approved beta, but works. Feb 21, 2012
Lanky
Tired
  V3+
Lanky   Tired
  V3+
Here's my unapproved beta (starts at about 2:25):

vimeo.com/37837378 Mar 5, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V4
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V4
Let's be honest, this is not v3... Jul 25, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4
I climbed this route as Lanky describes. I agree with Christian, this thing is certainly harder than V3! A good climb though! May 7, 2015
Graham O.  
 
Agreed. I climb v7 and this thing has shut me down every time I've tried it (2 sessions). Send will come soon, I hope. The beta in the video involves matching, with my lack of jamming skills I would never be able to pull that off! Jul 30, 2016
Graham O.  
 
Haha yes! Finally sent! Not the best problem but worth doing once if you are really bored :) Sep 26, 2016

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