PRINT: Climb Seam Crack, Southeast Utah

Seam Crack

A3-4 R, Aid, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Ken Trout & Crew (pitch 2 unknown)
Utah > Southeast Utah > River Rd > Anasazi Buttress

Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.

RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.

Description

Very very steep scary nailing on sub par rock. Someone on a subsequent ascent drilled angles/bolts next to the seam and then pulled them. Some of the holes were patched and angles were left in the others (glued in). Pitch one involved tons of shallow stacks and a few tipped out beaks- pendulum left off a beak (shallow) to some good gear in a right facing corner-more stacks to a bolt- and out the roof on nuts, beaks, angles and a hook. Good belay.

Pitch two involves hooks to a rivet ladder (occasional hook) to more of the same with bigger gear. Hanging Belay

pitch 3?

Location

next route left of Artist Tears

Protection

Leeper Z nailers (all sizes), beaks, tons of angles, sawed offs, hooks, rivet hangers, cams to #3 camalot, screamers.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looks like a wild line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Luke Malatesta
La Sal, UT

A3-4

Replaced Pitch 1 anchors (all stardrives w/ leeper hangers are now 1/2" or 3/8" 5-piece RAWLS) and all lead bolts during a solo. First pitch is close to 120'. Stumps, Beaks, and leeper Z nailers were key. Patched a few holes as well...

The "rivet" ladder starting pitch 2 are small (1/4" or smaller) 5 piece Rawls....Smalest RAWLS I have ever seen.... Dec 2, 2008

Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co

Looks like another killer line as far as excitment goes, not to harsh on the eyes either....

Might have to give it a try one day. Thanks for making that an option by replacing the hardware. Dec 4, 2008

Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co

So what's the deal with P3? Is top out possible with out heavy drilling? Just waiting for someone with huge balls or what? Jan 6, 2009

Luke Malatesta
La Sal, UT

A3-4

There are two bolts leading off the belay to the right into a thin seam. I dont think it would be any worse than what you have done to get there already. It did not look like it had been nailed, but there could be anchors on top...who knows....I would think it had been done though. Be kinda wierd if it just stopped. Probabily wouldn't need any heavy drilling.....Looks like it would take thin stuff. Jan 6, 2009

Kirk Miller
Catalina, AZ and Ilwaco, WA

Cool to hear this finally went. When we attempted the FA, I remember stacking a leaper z, two angles, and a knife blade, all tied off in a shallow hole in the seam. I couldn't get them to stick until I had them tied off and while gently waiting them I tapped each in as far as I could. With sand coming out of the placement (like sand through an hourglass) the whole time I was on on it, I drilled a baby angle and we bailed. The line we left fixed, swung in the breeze for what seemed like years. We were gonna call it Tears For Fears... but since we didn't complete the route the naming rights go to whoever first finished this sick nightmare. Oct 28, 2009