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Routes in Anasazi Buttress

Artist Tears T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3+
Foam Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Navajo Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Seam Crack A3-4 R
Shere Khan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
Type: Aid, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ken Trout & Crew (pitch 2 unknown)
Page Views: 911 total, 8/month
Shared By: Luke Malatesta on Aug 4, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Very very steep scary nailing on sub par rock. Someone on a subsequent ascent drilled angles/bolts next to the seam and then pulled them. Some of the holes were patched and angles were left in the others (glued in). Pitch one involved tons of shallow stacks and a few tipped out beaks- pendulum left off a beak (shallow) to some good gear in a right facing corner-more stacks to a bolt- and out the roof on nuts, beaks, angles and a hook. Good belay.

Pitch two involves hooks to a rivet ladder (occasional hook) to more of the same with bigger gear. Hanging Belay

pitch 3?

Location

next route left of Artist Tears

Protection

Leeper Z nailers (all sizes), beaks, tons of angles, sawed offs, hooks, rivet hangers, cams to #3 camalot, screamers.

Photos

Kirk Miller
Golden, CO
Kirk Miller   Golden, CO
Cool to hear this finally went. When we attempted the FA, I remember stacking a leaper z, two angles, and a knife blade, all tied off in a shallow hole in the seam. I couldn't get them to stick until I had them tied off and while gently waiting them I tapped each in as far as I could. With sand coming out of the placement (like sand through an hourglass) the whole time I was on on it, I drilled a baby angle and we bailed. The line we left fixed, swung in the breeze for what seemed like years. We were gonna call it Tears For Fears... but since we didn't complete the route the naming rights go to whoever first finished this sick nightmare. Oct 28, 2009
Luke Malatesta
Moab Utah
 
Luke Malatesta   Moab Utah
 
There are two bolts leading off the belay to the right into a thin seam. I dont think it would be any worse than what you have done to get there already. It did not look like it had been nailed, but there could be anchors on top...who knows....I would think it had been done though. Be kinda wierd if it just stopped. Probabily wouldn't need any heavy drilling.....Looks like it would take thin stuff. Jan 6, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
So what's the deal with P3? Is top out possible with out heavy drilling? Just waiting for someone with huge balls or what? Jan 6, 2009
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
Looks like another killer line as far as excitment goes, not to harsh on the eyes either....

Might have to give it a try one day. Thanks for making that an option by replacing the hardware. Dec 4, 2008
Luke Malatesta
Moab Utah
 
Luke Malatesta   Moab Utah
 
Replaced Pitch 1 anchors (all stardrives w/ leeper hangers are now 1/2" or 3/8" 5-piece RAWLS) and all lead bolts during a solo. First pitch is close to 120'. Stumps, Beaks, and leeper Z nailers were key. Patched a few holes as well...

The "rivet" ladder starting pitch 2 are small (1/4" or smaller) 5 piece Rawls....Smalest RAWLS I have ever seen.... Dec 2, 2008