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Routes in The Steep

Ashes S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Blue Note S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bunkweed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chossy Offwidth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Delt Melt S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Dr. Evil S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fat Bastard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Glenn's Route S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Goldmember S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Green Monster/George of the Jungle Var. S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Johnny Rotten S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mini-me S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Not known at this time S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slappin the Johnson S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Spiderman S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stepping Into Blue Sky S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stone Free S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ten Years After S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tony's Route AKA Cres-sent S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Two Birds Too Stoned S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Cres Snyder, John Baker, Joe Shiefman
Page Views: 2,535 total, 22/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Aug 4, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Description

Originally envisioned by Tony Lusk and drilled on aid I think. Eventually others did a ton of work to clean and solidify the route and did the first redpoint. This thing is super steep on the bottom 20 feet then it is "not so steep" but the moves through here might thwart you.

Location

Down the hill about two thirds of the way to the toe of the rock. It is the steepest start you will find. It starts just right of the Delt Melt crack/flake which leads to a dihedral.

Protection

Bolts
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Hey Eric... long time !

Last time I discussed the route with Cres (2-3 years ago ?) he cared. Does he care __today__ ?? I don't know.

As far as maintenance goes, I'm really refering to steel vs aluminum BINERS, not chain vs cable. When I used to make chain-draws, I used aluminum biners. Now I buy ClimbTech and they come with steel biners. And I know you know that steel has much better abrasion resistance. Maybe you used steel biners all along.

A note for the newbish... one drawback of fixed draws is that you are less likely to notice loose nuts/hangers when clipping a fixed draw. Worth remembering. I've encountered quite a few loose nuts lately.

Speaking of nuts... I was at Ireland recently and some young kid looked at me and said "Are you climbing Ireland !!??" And I thought "is there a route here named Ireland ? -- I don't think so". Then I realized that what he meant to say is "What's this old guy doing at this crag ??". LOL. Jul 1, 2016
Any data to support the claim that cable draws last longer than chain draws. I have never heard of a chain draw wearing out but I have read about cable draws fraying. A couple of chain draws would be nice.

Jbak why don't you ask Cres if he cares, I bet he doesn't. Jun 30, 2016
jbak
 
jbak  
 
I certainly respect your opinion Luke. I was just trying to relay the feelings of the FA.

It's easy to be lazy. Cable/chain draws are the ultimate in low-commitment climbing, and lots of people really like them. God knows I've hung quite a few of them, but I'm still of 2 minds about them. I feel like minimizing their use at crags that regular non-climbing hikers sometimes visit. And believe it or not, I've seen hikers at both The Steep and Delta. There are often hikers near The Orifice, but they can't get into a position to see the chains.

BTW I now use ClimbTech cable-draws with steel biners because they last way longer and are somewhat less visible. I've even swapped out some of my old chain-draws at the Helmet. Jun 27, 2016
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12c
John, it's likely I have spent too much time in Rilfe and Maple Canyon and have become lazy. I just felt like since the neighbor climb has chain draws and this is clearly a crag favorite it would benefit from the draws in steep terrain....just voicing my opinion.

We had this place all to ourselves yesterday and stayed out the rain in the overhung terrain. In between burns we rebuilt two of the belay platforms that needed a little love. This is a great little crag. Jun 27, 2016
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Hi Luke....... the FAist (Cres) almost never comes on this site, so I will attempt to speak for him. He doesn't like over-decorated crags. From the perspective of a hiker/tourist, cable-draws and chains are the most unsightly insults we inflict on crags. Bolts are less visible, glue still less. AFAIC it should be his call.

This route can be cleaned pretty easily if draws are removed in the correct order. It takes a bit of thought to figure out the correct order, but it works. Jun 27, 2016
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12c
Don't believe the hype! This route is sharp.

Also, chain draws/ fixed draws would be awesome on this route. Not sure why it doesn't need any..? Jun 26, 2016
jbak
 
jbak  
 
I think it should be cres's call. Jun 27, 2015
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12c
I have some ClimbTech cable draws I'm willing to donate if anyone is headed back out soon.

Let me know. Jun 27, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Chaindraws on bolts 3 & 4 have been removed. Setting the draws and cleaning the route is now more of a hassle. While they may not have been there originally they were certainly handy. The route and area already has glue and chaindraws. Can they be restored?

Thanks for the quicklinks Eric! Lazy climbers like myself applaud your efforts. Jun 27, 2015
EWod
  5.12
EWod  
  5.12
Added leaver's at the top for ease of cleaning. Jun 7, 2015
Me too! Much less annoying than someones draws hanging there for weeks and weeks. Jun 28, 2014
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
While the chains are certainly not necessary, they make cleaning the line much easier. Hence I would like to see them remain. Jun 28, 2014
Tony Lusk says yes to the chains! Jun 27, 2014
jbak
 
jbak  
 
I'd be happy to see them gone. I think I speak for Cres too. Jun 26, 2014
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Yup, 3 chain draws on bolts 2 through 4. Jun 26, 2014
jbak
 
jbak  
 
John... thx for your efforts. Are there still chain-draws on Cres-sent ? It doesn't need any, and Cres and I never put any on. Jun 25, 2014
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Tightened bolts 1 and 3 with a wrench and lock-tite. Jun 24, 2014
Dominic Weinstock  
  5.12
Excellent route! Def use the beta that Pat Mac does in his video down low......I started off using some whack heel hook beta that left me with a limp for a week :) Jun 8, 2014
Pat Mac
Tempe
Pat Mac   Tempe
Super fun! almost got the onsight. Botched the crux move beta. Here is how I did it.

vimeo.com/24582103 Jul 27, 2011
JesseJ
  5.12
JesseJ  
  5.12
Super fun, some sharp bits, but in your face from the first hold. Jun 5, 2011
JoeS
 
JoeS  
 
Great route. Really don't understand the bomb rating given by the one person. Feb 11, 2010