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Med Dose Madness

5.10b PG13, Sport,  Avg: 2 from 76 votes
FA: unknown
New Hampshire > Rumney > Meadows > Center Section
Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

I've been wondering about this route but hadn't gotten around to it yet. Just did it today and though it was a bit wet it was sharp enough to keep me on. Overall i thought it was a nice addition but i did feel that it was a bit sketchy going to the chains. It looked like if you blew one of the last moves you could hit the ledge below (like on Bonehead to the left). Thats why I put PG13, post your opinions if you disagree.

Climb the mossy slab start as for beginners/ Bonehead Roof. Head straight up the face on sharp holds following stainless steel eyebolts. The crux happens low and is painful on the fingers but there are lots of foot options to make the holds work. At about the 4th bolt the climbing eases up and you will soon be on a large ledge. Head up and right through a notch clipping your last bolt and step awkwardly to the right to another nice ledge. I would have liked another bolt here. Make a couple moves to the quick clips and say hurray!

Location

right of Bonehead Roof 5.10c. Look for stainless steel eyebolts.

Protection

7 bolts to quick clips. There is a spot for a blue Alien to help protect the exit moves if you wish.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Shows the route
[Hide Photo] Shows the route
Left hand is what I believe to be the crux side-pull/jug/undercling as you have to go through a few moves and change which angle you use the hold for. After this it's fun crimps and easy sequences to the ledge
[Hide Photo] Left hand is what I believe to be the crux side-pull/jug/undercling as you have to go through a few moves and change which angle you use the hold for. After this it's fun crimps and easy sequences…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jake D.
Northeast
[Hide Comment] I think this is really fun route. The bottom is crimpy and sharp(i prefer sharp holds) and i'd agree the top is a bit sketch but not terrible.. i thought bonehead's roof was worse. Aug 29, 2008
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] I believe this route is more in the .9, possibly 9+ range. But the the last move before clipping the chains is kind of hard with an intimidating fall potential. Take your time and figure out how to use the good holds and you should be fine. Dec 20, 2008
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I agree that the top felt sketchy and the bottom was sharp but with that said I think it is a fun route, that is certainly in the 5.10 a or b range, pumpy bottom leads to a fun top. Dec 23, 2008
Jake D.
Northeast
[Hide Comment] I did this again a few weekends ago and didn't find the top that sketchy at all.

I thought the bottom has harder crimp moves than Lies and propaganda. Then you get the same big ledge to rest up and take on the top roof. It's easier than Cold Turkey.. but harder than Lies Apr 22, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] I did this earlier today and agree with Jake's comparison to lies and cold turkey. I had done Bonehead Roof minutes before and found the top not to be sketchy at all. May 22, 2010
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
[Hide Comment] The top is a little sketchy, and I do think if you blow the exit moves you will hit the big ledge below. I use a small (blue) alien to protect the exit move. May 22, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] just to be clear, i didnt mean that i was sketched on the top out... what i was pointing out was the fact that you would hit the ledge if you did fall... i was more thinking about the climber that multi hung the first half of the route, is pumped out of his or her mind and might not have a cool head... just saysin be careful out there kids... Jul 7, 2010
[Hide Comment] I agree with Lee.
The end of this route definitely kept my attention (even not being pumped out) until I dropped the rope into the anchors. Jul 7, 2010
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
[Hide Comment] Nice beta on the blue alien, maybe that should be thrown into the the description as it might take a way the pg-13 factor. I just climbed it yesterday, and ended up throwing a draw on the quick clip before clipping to reduce the amount of rope I had to pull out.

Not having read this page, I definitely had the thought, "Why isn't there another bolt to protect decking below the roof?" Oh well...



PS: the guidebook mentions that Jon Barker was a "tall man", so the vertically challenged get a little extra thrill!! And where did he get those funny shaped bolts? Apr 6, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] The is currently a large bird nest on the final ledge of this climb. May 7, 2012
[Hide Comment] Concerning the PG13 rating, unlike many climbs at Rumney, this climb is not a "mini top rope." It may seem a bit scary but its refreshing to make bold lead (not a bolt ladder). When the climbing is difficult, you have bolts; when the climbing is easy, you have to run it out to the next bolt. If you get scared, bring some small cams. Jun 17, 2013
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
 
[Hide Comment] I too question the lack of protection on the finish of this route. Though not as difficult or technical as the opening moves on the climb, the finishing moves to the chains are not trivial and a fall there would IMHO be pretty devastating as you would undoubtedly hit the slab below. One more prior to launching for the clips would be nice...but it is what it is.

Blue alien would have come in handy!! ;) Oct 5, 2014
Luke Mertins
Worcester, MA
 
[Hide Comment] This was a pretty cool route, but the last bolt is unnecessarily high and to the right, kind of makes an otherwise decent climb PG13 Jul 7, 2018