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Routes in Center Section

Beginner's Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Bolt Line S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonehead Roof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cold Turkey S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hippos on Parade S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hold Me aka The Move S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lies and Propaganda S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Med Dose Madness S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Misdemeanor S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mom's Pancake S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rhino Bucket S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tunnel Zone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 331 total, 3/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Aug 4, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

I've been wondering about this route but hadn't gotten around to it yet. Just did it today and though it was a bit wet it was sharp enough to keep me on. Overall i thought it was a nice addition but i did feel that it was a bit sketchy going to the chains. It looked like if you blew one of the last moves you could hit the ledge below (like on Bonehead to the left). Thats why I put PG13, post your opinions if you disagree.

Climb the mossy slab start as for beginners/ Bonehead Roof. Head straight up the face on sharp holds following stainless steel eyebolts. The crux happens low and is painful on the fingers but there are lots of foot options to make the holds work. At about the 4th bolt the climbing eases up and you will soon be on a large ledge. Head up and right through a notch clipping your last bolt and step awkwardly to the right to another nice ledge. I would have liked another bolt here. Make a couple moves to the quick clips and say hurray!

Location

right of Bonehead Roof 5.10c. Look for stainless steel eyebolts.

Protection

7 bolts to quick clips. There is a spot for a blue Alien to help protect the exit moves if you wish.

Photos

Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
 
Chris Graham   Bartlett, NH
 
I too question the lack of protection on the finish of this route. Though not as difficult or technical as the opening moves on the climb, the finishing moves to the chains are not trivial and a fall there would IMHO be pretty devastating as you would undoubtedly hit the slab below. One more prior to launching for the clips would be nice...but it is what it is.

Blue alien would have come in handy!! ;) Oct 5, 2014
Concerning the PG13 rating, unlike many climbs at Rumney, this climb is not a "mini top rope." It may seem a bit scary but its refreshing to make bold lead (not a bolt ladder). When the climbing is difficult, you have bolts; when the climbing is easy, you have to run it out to the next bolt. If you get scared, bring some small cams. Jun 17, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
The is currently a large bird nest on the final ledge of this climb. May 7, 2012
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Nice beta on the blue alien, maybe that should be thrown into the the description as it might take a way the pg-13 factor. I just climbed it yesterday, and ended up throwing a draw on the quick clip before clipping to reduce the amount of rope I had to pull out.

Not having read this page, I definitely had the thought, "Why isn't there another bolt to protect decking below the roof?" Oh well...



PS: the guidebook mentions that Jon Barker was a "tall man", so the vertically challenged get a little extra thrill!! And where did he get those funny shaped bolts? Apr 6, 2012
S. Neoh  
I agree with Lee.
The end of this route definitely kept my attention (even not being pumped out) until I dropped the rope into the anchors. Jul 7, 2010
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
just to be clear, i didnt mean that i was sketched on the top out... what i was pointing out was the fact that you would hit the ledge if you did fall... i was more thinking about the climber that multi hung the first half of the route, is pumped out of his or her mind and might not have a cool head... just saysin be careful out there kids... Jul 7, 2010
Glenn Cilley
Laconia, NH
Glenn Cilley   Laconia, NH
The top is a little sketchy, and I do think if you blow the exit moves you will hit the big ledge below. I use a small (blue) alien to protect the exit move. May 22, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
 
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
 
I did this earlier today and agree with Jake's comparison to lies and cold turkey. I had done Bonehead Roof minutes before and found the top not to be sketchy at all. May 22, 2010
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
I did this again a few weekends ago and didn't find the top that sketchy at all.

I thought the bottom has harder crimp moves than Lies and propaganda. Then you get the same big ledge to rest up and take on the top roof. It's easier than Cold Turkey.. but harder than Lies Apr 22, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  5.10b
I agree that the top felt sketchy and the bottom was sharp but with that said I think it is a fun route, that is certainly in the 5.10 a or b range, pumpy bottom leads to a fun top. Dec 23, 2008
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
5.9+ PG13
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
5.9+ PG13
I believe this route is more in the .9, possibly 9+ range. But the the last move before clipping the chains is kind of hard with an intimidating fall potential. Take your time and figure out how to use the good holds and you should be fine. Dec 20, 2008
Jake D.
Northeast
Jake D.   Northeast
I think this is really fun route. The bottom is crimpy and sharp(i prefer sharp holds) and i'd agree the top is a bit sketch but not terrible.. i thought bonehead's roof was worse. Aug 29, 2008