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Cat Daddy

5.13-, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 16 votes
FA: John Duran & Gary Byzak, August 1988
New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Sandia Mountains > Chimney Canyon > Clandestine Wall

Description

This was for a long time the hardest completed route in the Sandias and unrepeated on lead. Climbs the obvious crack splitting the steep red wall. The majority of the route is probably hard 5.11+ to a difficult and technical boulder problem at the top.

Climb the varied and steep crack till it pinches off as it curves to the right, do crux moves onto the slab and step right to the bolted anchor of Event Horizon or step back left and climb crumbly rock with a fair bit of lichen to the Autum Ivy anchors.

Possible to TR from the Autum Ivy anchors with a 70m rope.

Location

Obvious steep crack just right of the ledge spitting the slightly overhanging red wall.

Protection

RP's, double set of cams to #2 camalot, with more in the off fingers size, bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

John Duran at the crux of Cat Daddy (5.13a), Sandia Mountains<br> <br> Photo by David Benyak
[Hide Photo] John Duran at the crux of Cat Daddy (5.13a), Sandia Mountains Photo by David Benyak
Up at the crux.
[Hide Photo] Up at the crux.
Dan Foster redpointing Cat Daddy. 2011
[Hide Photo] Dan Foster redpointing Cat Daddy. 2011
Sebastian calmly placing gear off of some very small footholds.
[Hide Photo] Sebastian calmly placing gear off of some very small footholds.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
  5.13-
[Hide Comment] I carried a double set of cams to a #1 camalot, and it seemed as though you could place something bigger and I wanted an extra #.5 camalot or red alien, maybe 2. The crux protects well with a really good RP or small Stopper, #4 for both I think, though the hard moves are not over till your feet are even with or just above the piece, but hey you're 80+ feet off the ground at this point. Aug 4, 2008
Mick S
Utah
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] An awesome route that requires a variety of skills. Jamming, jug pulling, and a hard, face climbing exit. After trying several options, I thought the best pro for the exit moves was a #5 stopper, that requires some patience to place. It is bomber, which is good, since the fall from the last moves is exciting. Oct 20, 2011
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
Austin, TX
  5.13-
[Hide Comment] Eric, you probably could...

Realistically the crux is no harder than V6, it just comes at the end of the pitch. On top of that it is more technical than powerful. Jan 11, 2012
William Penner
The 505
  5.13-
[Hide Comment] Y'all are both talented and forgetful. The section above the handjam/jug (but below the crux) is technical and always feels hard. It may not be as hard as the section above, but it still is challenging.

Either way, props to all who do this pitch--one of the best in the Sandias. If only we had 10 more like it. Jan 12, 2012
William Penner
The 505
  5.13-
[Hide Comment] Does open bivying really suck or is it a pleasant night under the stars?

That depends on whether you left the jackets a few pitches below, are wearing long underwear or a hat, if you have enough cigarettes, etc. So many variables go into that one, the only constant being that you are always certain the other guy has it better than you. Jan 13, 2012