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Face off in Albania
5.10b,
Sport, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
FA: unknown
New York
> Little Falls
> Dihedrals
Access Issue: Unknown Private Land Issues
Details
This crag is on private property. CSX owns the tracks you must cross to get to the crag, but apparently they don't seem to care. The actual cliff is owned by an unknown private individual who's policy hasn't been established.
Due to an unfriendly owner, several years ago nearly all of the routes were stripped of fixed protection, including anchors.
Description
a good sport lead, although when first done it probably went up on gear (given the 5.10b TR guidebook rating), the face has since been bolted. The guide suggests to layback off the upper crack of
Buzz Junky, but the bolts make it possible to aviod this altogether via some thin crimps and lousy feet, adding some spice and maybe a letter grade or so to the route.
Location
On the Amtrak Arete sector. Uses the arete to the left and moves across the face. Located right next door to
Buzz Junky.
Protection
4 bolts to coldshuts
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Also, the perfect buzz junky crack about 6" to the right of some of the face holds makes this climb feel a bit contrived to me. It could be better described (and climbed) as a variation to buzz junky that traverses into the crack from the arete on the left. Nov 13, 2017