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Routes in Utah Wall

Airtime T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Apex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apex Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In The Pink T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyers, Guns, and Money T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right of the Roof T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Shotgun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shotgun (Variation) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (TR) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Utah Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown (right most crack in the roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Pleinis - 06/87
Page Views: 1,290 total, 11/month
Shared By: triznuty on Aug 2, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This climbs the slabby face to the right of Shotgun crack. All I remember is clipping a few bolts on the face and then using some gear to protect the roof and cracks above. I pulled the roof a bit to the right of where Shotgun probably does. I also remember hitting chain anchors at the top (maybe shares the anchors of Shotgun??). It felt like a mid 10 at the time...

Protection

Bolts and some sm-med gear.

Photos

Laine Christman
Reno, NV
 
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
 
Beware pulling the roof, there are some less than secure blocks underneath but they can be avoided. Sep 5, 2012
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.11a
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.11a
The face part of this climb is incredibly thin. It felt 11ish to me. Maybe I am wimpy, but I found the face totally blank. The roof was really fun. It kind of felt like a mirror image of the Apex roof. Oct 22, 2010
The bolts on this route could use some updating. They seem solid enough but are button-head types.

Very fun route. For me, the crux was getting over the first lip at the first bolt and some crimper moves on the face. Haven't figured out the best way to protect the roof yet but there are several options. Sep 17, 2010
This was the first sport route in Ogden, put up by Mike Pleinis in 6/87. The 80's were a time of sometimes heated debate over the "ethics" of rap bolting sport routes. It does exit the roof on it's right side, requiring some trad pro. Avoid the crack to it's left. Jul 14, 2010
Nich Cloward
American Fork
 
Nich Cloward   American Fork
 
I'm pretty sure I found the right climb. My friend had the info and took us there. At the roof there's a small chimney you can pop through to get above. The start was a little weird because of a small ledge you have to get over. It'd be a roof if that section were vertical. We did it as a sport climb and didn't have any trad gear, or it would've been a little different, but still great as a sport. I still remember one hold at the beginning that was sharp as as knife that I stuck to get me over that first "roof." Aug 15, 2009
Travis Larsen
Ogden, UT
Travis Larsen   Ogden, UT
It's called Lawyers, Guns, and Money. I read that it was the first rap bolted line in Ogden, and hence the name. Aug 3, 2008