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Routes in Utah Wall

Airtime T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Apex T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apex Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love My Wife But She Doesn't Climb T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
In The Pink T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lawyers, Guns, and Money T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right of the Roof T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Shotgun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shotgun (Variation) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (TR) S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unnamed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed Dihedral T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Utah Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
unknown (right most crack in the roof) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,032 total, 18/month
Shared By: Tom Powell on Aug 2, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

The route follows a splitter crack into the highest corner of the roof. At the corner step out of the roof and ascend to the anchors.

Location

This route is located toward the north end of the Utah Wall.

Protection

Set of stoppers and cams from .4-3 Camalot (you could bring and use a 4 if you really want to).

Photos

morgoth70
Bountiful, UT
  5.6
morgoth70   Bountiful, UT
  5.6
Love the moves through the roof! A tough fit for a 6'3" climber with a large frame (read: ME!), I wound up twisting around and stemming with my back to the face and let out whoop when I pulled over the top. After, I commented to my partner that maybe we should rename it to "Twist and Shout." :-)
Good fun and lotsa pro May 27, 2015
Neil Johnson
Salt Lake City, Utah
 
Neil Johnson   Salt Lake City, Utah
 
If you continue above the bolts, you can add another really short pitch and hit a set of chains that I believe are there for "Airtime". The guidebook does call this a 2 pitch climb though, so maybe they really are for "Shotgun". Jun 2, 2014
Cory Callister
Ogden, Utah
  5.6
Cory Callister   Ogden, Utah
  5.6
I was able to climb this sport by reaching climbers right for the bolts on Lawyers, Guns, and Money. The roof-crux would probably be better protected with pro., but for the climber without a rack, it is doable. Aug 24, 2010
wasatch-mtn-man  
  5.6
We wondered how the climb could only be a 5.6 until we got to the roof and realized how easily it was cleared by stepping out to climbers left. Very fun climb and easily protected.

After reaching the anchors we went up, then traversed left the the anchor atop Utah Crack. It was a bit of a lichen-fest but fun to explore. Not sure what the name of that traverse is but it was easy climbing. Aug 31, 2009