Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Howie Richardson, Dan van der Torre 1989 Direct start: Howie Richardson, Hugh Lenney 1993
Page Views: 1,846 total · 14/month
Shared By: kyber on Aug 1, 2008
Admins: Sean Godwin, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


37 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Starts on the ledge. Sustained 5.9 climbing with a slight bulge at top (could be considered the crux).

Location

Starts at the leftmost rap station on top of the ledge, to the right of Stouthearted.

Protection

10 bolts, but some take a 1" CD for a slightly run-out section. **NOTE: This route is 35m if you don't rap or downclimb from the ledge.**

Add New Photo
Photo Photo (copy)
Photos

The Fortress
The Fortress
 0

4 Comments

Sort by: Oldest
Newest Oldest Best Beta
Cam Robertson
  5.9 PG13
Cam Robertson  
  5.9 PG13
New grading is 5.10a - it's gone from 5.10a in the original guide, to 5.9, and now back to 5.10a. A great climb to finish a weekend on - looking South over the wineries to the lake, thinking about a swim and a cold bevvie. Best done with a top belay to share it with your partner. Then you can rap or walk off (North).

Only PG13 if you don't sink a cam at mid-height. Jul 28, 2010
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
 
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
 
Yeah it was nice. Probably a bit easier than the route just left of it called stouthearted 10a Sep 30, 2014
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.10a PG13
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.10a PG13
Graded as 5.10a in book. I don’t see the difference in level of difficulty between this and Stouthearted. They are very similar. Need to scramble up the ledge to get to the start. Further up it’s really run out between 2 bolt for about 15 feet, which may scare the 10- leader. A bird sat next to me and spooked me when it took off. Adrenaline rush for the next few bolts after that. (Maybe that's why it felt like a 10a?). There’s a small roof feature that you don’t really use except an edge on the right to push off of, just go left and avoid the “x.” Jugs up from there. Sep 12, 2018
slim

  5.9 PG13
slim    
  5.9 PG13
you definitely want to bring an off-fingers to thin hand sized cam to plug in at the ledge/crack around 2/3's height. without this piece i would call it R-rated. the last bolt is a ways below the ledge and the moves getting off the ledge to the next bolts are on thin holds that look like they could break. if you fell here you would probably get flipped by the ledge and go for a 30 foot head first whipper. i thought the location of the bolt off the ledge was really poorly thought out... Sep 15, 2018