Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Plan B Area

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,024 total, 9/month
Shared By: Dobbe on Aug 1, 2008
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb inside corner of Smack Crack to good holds at center break and Dyno for the lip (the top of the bluff, not the jug at mid height).

Location

Smack Crack wall

Protection

the more pads the better.

Photos

Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Excellent. Glad someone has. I haven't! Apr 20, 2015
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
I have:) Apr 20, 2015
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Has anyone actually ever done the problem as described?

Meaning: from the huge jug at mid-height (what everyone is hanging off of in all the photos above) and dynoing to anywhere along the top of the bluff?

I tried again last fall on a seemingly very low gravity day and just ended up with a bruised heel for my efforts. Apr 19, 2015
Dylan Colon
Eugene, OR
Dylan Colon   Eugene, OR
I struggled a lot on this thing today, after quick sends of Press it Out, The Loner, and Day Dream Arete earlier in the day, and couldn't send (proper dyno from horizontal break to top). So in my mind the dyno is quite a bit stiffer than V2, I'd say V3/4 minimum. In the end, I simply threw a heel up onto the ledge that the dyno goes from and mantled up to the top statically, which felt about V2. Dynoing directly to the top feels quite a bit harder than V2, however. Jul 11, 2011
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V2
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V2
looks like I'll have to go back and send it the real way. Ya! Jul 7, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
that is my understanding my friend. Jul 7, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V2
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V2
After rereading the description, it doesnt sound like we did the dyno. So you go from the huge horizontal flake and dyno to the top? Jul 7, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
What we really need is a Sweaty video. Jul 6, 2010
sweatpants
Broomfield, CO
sweatpants   Broomfield, CO
I'm not seeing pictures of the "dyno" as I understand it. The hold it seems your "finishing on"/the break in the rock, is actually the start of the problem if I'm correct. and then it goes to the top. Dobbe could probably speak better to that. Or perhaps these just aren't full sequence pics and you did go to the lip, in which case, well done. Jul 6, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Right on John. I would like to see you guys on it. Maybe I just need to sack up, which is often the case! Headed to the Hills this weekend but let's get together later this summer for sure. Jul 6, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V2
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V2
Chris,

It's still a very dynamic move. I used the same holds as in the pic. My right hand never left the start hold, and my feet didn't cut at all. If you are 6ft., you should be able to just hit the hold. Paul did it first, and being 6 ft 7in, it was even easier for him.

Hit me up via email and we can figure out a time to get out and do some bouldering. Jul 6, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Man, I have been on this problem many times and never committed to the dyno. John, the photos above show Colin going to the hold where the dyno starts. As I understood it, the dyno should go from that hold to the top lip. Did you do that move statically? Hard to imagine, but hey, anything is possible. Where were your feet? I would like you to show me that move next time we're out there together. I just can't committ to the dyno and couldn't figure out any way to do it statically/deadpoint. Jul 6, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  V2
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  V2
fun problem. I must be too tall. No need for a dino. Jul 6, 2010
Dobbe
 
Dobbe  
 
The problem goes from that hold to the lip. This is just the start not the end. Sorry for any mix up in the description Colin. Nov 9, 2009
Colin Erskine
Madison, WI
  V2
Colin Erskine   Madison, WI
  V2
You can use high feet or low feet to get this. Nov 5, 2009