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Routes in 9. Chimney Buttress

Abyss, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Boy Howdy T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bushmaster T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Horizontal Tango, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
In and Out T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Jugs of Whine AKA Magic Carpet Ride TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poika TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Roofs T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seduction and Rejection TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
X T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Y TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Z T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
dance, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 167 total, 1/month
Shared By: Pete Hunt on Jul 29, 2008
Admins: Kris Gorny, Chris treggE

You & This Route

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Follow the crack straight up the big roof. There are a lot of jugs throughout this section that make the roof very manageable. Watch out for cactus at the ledge half way up. Finish by working right after gaining the big ledge, ending on the face of the giant block at the top.


Just north and around the corner from X, Y, Z, it's the thin crack that goes straight up the roof.


Standard TR set up. Long slings helpful.

Bring small stuff if you try to lead it from what I remember.


Mitch alons
Sioux Falls sd
Mitch alons   Sioux Falls sd
Rp lead, protected well with .5 camalot and aliens. Went up the roof then right and straight up. Fun exciting lead! Aug 1, 2014
After the ledge if you continue straight up rather than to the left it's a little harder and gets slabby at the top, but good climb. The roof area is lots of fun with good positive holds. May 4, 2009