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Black Market Organ Donor
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.1 from 19
votes
Routes in Bulo Point
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Atomic Dust Buster S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Barking Spider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Market Organ Donor T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bulo Dancing T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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DaKine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Don't Call Me Ishmael S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Drawin' A Blank S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flying Meatball T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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For The Love of God Alice Shut the Bathroom Door S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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I Am Not The Man S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Inversion Excursion S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jet Stream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jet Wind S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nook and Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nuke the Gay Whales for Jesus S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Plumber's Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Raiders of the Lost Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Return of Yoda S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Scene of the Crime T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Separated at Birth S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Silence of the Cams S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slice of Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown Wide Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,438 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Eng on Jul 28, 2008 |
| Admins: | Roberta Zouain, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Description
It appears that it is possible to approach the first bolt by either climbing up the left side of the spire on the sloppy looking holds or stemming on the right side the then reaching far out to the bolt. Starting on the left side is better and the holds are a more positive than they look. The technical crux comes slightly above the first bolt and involves an awkward balancy transition from the left to the right of the spire. From here good holds lead directly up to another bolt. Then the route becomes an easy (5.7ish) but scary run out ramp which approaches an overhanging bulge. From below the overhanging it is possible to lean back just slightly (be careful!) and reach a bolt up and on the right bulge. Once you clip this bolt, the physical crux is a small boulder problem to get over the bulge. Then the route proceeds up another easy ramp to the chains.
Location
This climb starts in the main area to the right of the popular Jet Wind climb. It begins ascending directly up the spire but then transitions into a steep ramp that is difficult to see from the bottom.
Protection
There are around 4 of five bolts and good anchor chains. It is good to also have a few pieces of 1"-4" trad gear. From the bottom it appears like it might be possible to do with quickdraws alone, but when you are below the overhang and you are leaning backwards trying desperately to see where the next bolt is and your last draw is 20 feet below you, having gear will be nice.
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