Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,923 total · 15/month
Shared By: Sean Cobourn on Jul 26, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Start on the mega-classic Shredded Wheat. Where it follows the left crack, take the right hand tips crack to a scary looking flake which is followed to the right and up to a small roof. Finish at the Shredded anchors. The bolt is there because the flake did break and likely would again.

Location

Just right of Shredded Wheat at left side of Cereal Buttress.

Protection

small stuff, one bolt where the flake would probably break.

Photos

Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
 
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
 
FFA: Erin Wilson. January 2009. Jan 31, 2009
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
 
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
 
And quite the dude indeed. However, he spells his name Erin. Feb 5, 2009
Brian Abram
Celo, NC
  5.11-
Brian Abram   Celo, NC
  5.11-
This line was for sure led prior to 2009. I led it in Spring 2007, placing gear in that flake, and I don't believe there's any way I was the first. Oct 18, 2011
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
 
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
 
I heard something to the same effect from Buddy Brasington, but have yet to find any information about who the true First Ascencionist is. Should probably have Sean change the route information to reflect this. Oct 18, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Who cares who sent this thing first, this climb sucks. It barely deviates from shredded. When it does, it is chossy, dirty, and poorly protected. The bolt is in the most ridiculous spot. Right when the climbing is easy, you get a bolt. How about you move the bolt 15 feet down where it actually matters, because the flake can break. This seems like a case of someone trying squeeze one in at cereal wall. Oct 5, 2014
munkeybog Sox
Columbia, SC
 
munkeybog Sox   Columbia, SC
 
I just stumbled onto this. I definitely lead this in fall 2007 and I do not recall a bolt. And the flake didn't break on my fall. I remember because I had a nice "soft" catch. and fell from the top of the flake all the way to the overlap.

I was just tired of losing pinky skin on the regular Shredded Wheat crack. Jan 5, 2016
I don't know what all the hubbub is about. When I moved here years ago, there was an obvious crack and I wanted to climb it. Never said I was first. I thought it was fun. Aug 7, 2016