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Routes in East Rosebud Lake

Ramp, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Standard Route Tower of Innocence T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unnamed T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Upper East Rosebud Falls WI3
Type: Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,978 total, 52/month
Shared By: Jerry Cagle on Jul 26, 2008
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Follow crack system up center of face.

Location

See The Rock Climber's Guide to Montana

Protection

Standard rack.
Zach Wahrer
Bozeman, MT
  5.8
Zach Wahrer   Bozeman, MT
  5.8
I did a full write up on my website for those interested in pitch by pitch beta for this climb.

I would definitely say this route is a must do if you are in the area, especially the 5.9 variation! Jun 26, 2017
Big thanks for the blog post above^--great pitch by pitch breakdown.

A couple more clarifying thoughts:
-Gear: Standard selection of nuts, cams from .3-#3 BD with doubles from .75-2 BD Lots of long runners.
-5.8 start is right next to the dead tree. As mentioned, bigger hands make the mini-roof harder.
-5.9 upper section is very, very fun. Protects very well. It's the crack with two roofs immediately climber's left of the 5.7 dihedral; the lower roof has a chockstone to sling once you pull around it. Upper section, as mentioned, pulls over a cool features with two horns that looks like the head of a slug.

Approach: follow meadows and ridges of boulders up through the scrubby bits to the base of the climb.

Descent: Just atop the 5.9, two obvious, shiny bolts on the south/southwest side make for a great rappel into the gully far below. We had plenty of rope with two 70s; two 60s would also work (swing rappeler's left to shorten it a bit). Easy walk down from there (class 3 max) which takes you very near to the base. Sep 7, 2017
Jack McNeil
Louisville, Co
  5.7
Jack McNeil   Louisville, Co
  5.7
awesome route! Do the 5.9 roof at the top. it is most excellent! Mar 8, 2017
nmiller
Bozeman, MT
  5.8
nmiller   Bozeman, MT
  5.8
the descent gully on climbers right (mostly coming down the next ribs of rock, dropping into gully about halfway down) is a scramble, no raps needed. Super fun route with quick access Dec 5, 2015
Anthony Pavkovich
Bozeman
 
Anthony Pavkovich   Bozeman
 
The 5.9 variation for the last pitch is stellar. Great gear placements and rests before each bulge. Excellent finish to this route. For gear, I took a set of cams to #3 and doubled the #s 1-3. Only placed one offset and the bd stoppers went in great. Sep 3, 2013
IJMayer
Bellingham, WA
IJMayer   Bellingham, WA
How long were the pitches and how sustained were the cracks? Did you really need triples? Jan 11, 2013
MTKirk
Billings, MT
 
MTKirk   Billings, MT
 
I thought the hand crack, over a bulge, start to this was at least 5.8 maybe even 5.9, but it's only one or two moves & the protection is excellent (#1 camalot I think). The "5.9" variation of the last pitch looks hard, it's steep and exposed but I think it climbs easier than the start. DMM Alloy & brass offsets were very useful in the flared cracks that make up the bulk of the route. I took triple camalots from .5 to 1, two #2's, two #3's, & mastercam sizes 0, 1, & 2. Brought BD stoppers but was only able to set a couple, probably would be better to just double up on the offsets. Used lots of extenders (10 or so) even a couple double length to keep the rope running well. With a 70M you can easily reach the top in 4 pitches. Oct 3, 2012