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Routes in White Pines West

Between a Rock and an Easy Place. S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Hole S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Naked Truth T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Stickeen's Way S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Thunder Dome T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Two to Tango S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Al Simons
Page Views: 81 total, 1/month
Shared By: allen simons on Jul 23, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Closed to public access Details

Description

Basicly 5.4 through out. Easy way to the top. Good beginner lead.

Location

8-10 feet left of Black Hole into a slot or chimney of rock. On a west-facing, black-grey groove under two bolts. Rap to base.

Protection

Two bolts, no other gear. Two bolt anchor at top.

Photos

allen simons  
 
Yeah, it is run out from the second bolt but given the grade it seemed reasonable. I never had a rope hang up issue on any of the four routes here. There was a bit of friction on thunderdome due to the low angle of the rock, but I consider myself the master of rope snagging and mine pulled fine. Allen Nov 8, 2008
Tanner Mitchell
Fort Collins CO
  5.4 PG13
Tanner Mitchell   Fort Collins CO
  5.4 PG13
A third bolt would really sew up this route - the runout from bolt 2 is about 1/3 or more of the route length, granted on easier climbng, but a slip up there on lead could be disastrous with the back wall being so close.
Also, make sure you have a bail biner for rapping off any of the routes on this wall. The angle of the anchors combined with the sharp rocks and lower angle of the top half of the rock caught my rope on every ascent of this wall. Oct 4, 2008