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5.7, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2 from 34 votes
FA: Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Wild

Description

This route climbs the corner on the right side of the upper slab on the right side of the Wild.

I would recommend that only experienced trad leaders lead this route. It's not hard and the protection is pretty good, but still, you've got to have confidence in placing gear in limestone. We don't like to bolt cracks, that's why we left it as a trad route. If you don't have trad gear, just toprope the thing, but don't bolt the crack.

Location

The obvious corner to the right of Welcome to the Jungle. There is one bolt in the middle of the route where the crack doesn't take any gear.

Protection

A couple slings (I slung the detached pillar with a shoulder-length sling), medium cams (I used red and gold Camalots), a quickdraw for the one bolt in the middle of the route. Maybe some medium-large nuts. Chains on top.

You can toprope this route by first climbing either Welcome to the Jungle or Stampede and just reaching over to the chains of this route. The anchors are a few feet apart.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

One of the best, short Trad routes in the canyon.
[Hide Photo] One of the best, short Trad routes in the canyon.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Lots of little crozlies in the crack (before the bolt, gets cleaner after) which made me wonder if cams would hold a fall. The bolt is in the exact right place. The climbing is pretty mellow though so don't panic. The only down side I really found was that it shares many of the same holds as "Welcome to the Jungle." Jul 23, 2008
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Maybe I'm weird, but I actually liked this climb a lot, even more than the other two maybe. I don't know why. I stuck as far right as possible without using the ledge and it is a really fun climb. May 30, 2009
Eric Hardester
Provo, Utah
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] Top roped it. Has a few fun moves. Stick to the right as much as possible and use the cracks for the most fun on it. Apr 9, 2014
Brody Smith
  5.7
[Hide Comment] It says only experienced Trad climbers to climb this route (I HAVE ONLY DONE A HANDFUL OF TRAD CLIMBS, SO LISTEN TO THE EXPERIENCED CLIMBERS) but I normally get super scared on a Trad climb, and this little gem has super great clipping and placement stances if you run it out a rad more then a sport route. I didn't read the descriptions and glad I didn't, because I would of stayed of, the climb is a stem problem which means you don't have to let go of a precious hand hold to clip. just my humble two cents. Apr 8, 2015
The Real Ryan Murphy
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Lots of fun, especially for beginner trad lead. There is a bolt half way up, that will give you some comfort. The rock before the chains is pretty hollow sounding, that made me a bit nervous, but still a fun route. Sep 16, 2018