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Routes in The Wild

Antelope T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Call of the Wild S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chupacabra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Congo S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Gazelle S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Heart of Darkness T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Migration T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Serengeti S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stampede S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to the Jungle S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell
Page Views: 4,367 total, 38/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Jul 22, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Description

This is a great climb! Climb past a couple bolts to a steeper headwall section. Pull past this section on lots of fun pulling on great jugs. That's the crux, but it's also the best part of the route. (Stay left if you want the 5.10 experience; going right makes it easier). After that, the route slabs out a bit up to the chains.

Location

The steep prow/corner that is between the left slab (the section of wall that has Call of the Wild and Serengeti on it) and the right slab (the section of wall with Stampede and Welcome to the Jungle on it). Access it from the main landing (the landing under the slab routes on the left side of the Wild).

Protection

5 bolts to chains.

Photos

Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.10a/b
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.10a/b
I was planning to just do most of the routes here, so I didn't check the route descriptions, suddenly I'm on this layback flake, thinking "This flake is awesome! And it feels kinds like a 5.10 - must be Chupacabra."

That crux layback section was pure gold! I loved it right up until I had to move my feet higher onto that slick section. Man, my feet must've slipped a dozen times before I fell, then another couple times before I figured out a really funky toe hook way to the side, reached for a far off crimp and made it past!

It's a sweet route - no doubt about that, but that couple feet of climbing is just polished from lots of chalk and rubber packed into it. I brought my pretty old shoes that don't smear super well, so that probably didn't help, but that section still felt more difficult that it needed to be. If I remember, I'll bring a wire brush next time I go to this wall so I can clean it off a bit. Still an awesome, classic route! Jun 3, 2017
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
While it's very possible (and even probable) that the feet have gotten more slippery over the years, that crux section was slippery even on the first ascent. May 25, 2017
Benjamin Anderson
  5.10b/c
Benjamin Anderson  
  5.10b/c
Though it was a very well done route, I feel like it has one major flaw. At the gem section, the lieback at the flake, the feet were way slippery. It felt pretty greased out, making for pretty frustrating footwork. 5.23.17 I'd like to see everyone else's thoughts. May 25, 2017
DanielRich  
 
Ya if you miss those sweetback lieback moves you missed the fun part. Really fun moves. Sep 3, 2015
Tristan Mayfield
SLC, UT
  5.10a
Tristan Mayfield   SLC, UT
  5.10a
This a pretty cool route! I really like the crux move! Watch out for the pokey rock at the bottom of the climb though, it would hurt to fall on. Jul 21, 2013
Canyon Copa  
 
Big fun moves on great holds up over the bulge. Highly recommended. Jun 1, 2012
BJB
Texas
  5.9+
BJB   Texas
  5.9+
This was a great, fun route. The lie back moves are a lot of fun, but i'd say the same thing about the foot holds that Christian did, I slipped on one and almost blew the onsight. Great rock in this whole area. Jun 16, 2011
Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.10a
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.10a
I would 2nd the previous comments. I mistakenly went right the first time I did this. I totally missed the sweet lieback moves. That's where the fun, and the difficulty lies. I also noticed that the footholds in the crux were indeed very polished. If you want your onsight, don't read this next part: a high heel hook can get you past the polished feet. Apr 27, 2011
For anyone else who might be wondering
this is what a Chupacabra is

Personally they don't scare me one bit. Sep 14, 2010
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.10a
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.10a
Led this for the first time today and I have to say, I thought it was top grade. The first part of the climb is good, the last part is good, nothing amazing, but the crux move is one of the funnest moves I've done. You can go to the right, yeah, but not only does it make it a lot easier (I watched a guy struggle and struggle through the crux before finally just climbing on the right to the chains), but you also miss the best part of the climb. Apr 24, 2010
Nich Cloward
American Fork
  5.10a
Nich Cloward   American Fork
  5.10a
Very fun climb. Staying to the right makes it easier for, sure, but doing so puts you in a balancy spot for a move or two. Staying on the flake is much funner, and the feet are a little slippery, but it makes it exciting. Aug 18, 2009
Aaron Child  
 
Cool route! The feet were a little slippery when i began the lie-backing section, which made it pretty exciting. Sep 14, 2008
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10a
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
  5.10a
Super fun like all the routes on this wall. Loved the layback in the middle of the route. You guys did a great job! Sep 4, 2008
Stay to the left and you will not only do the intended climb, but you will avoid all the loose stuff. Aug 23, 2008
tysin schaugaard
orem, utah
tysin schaugaard   orem, utah
really cool climb but lots of flake off i pulled two huge flakes off today but i dont think it changed the climb any Aug 17, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
The most difficult climb on the wall. In my opinion, this is one of the best 5.10a's in the canyon. Pulling through the crux requires laybacking off of a sweet flake/rail. Just plain fun climbing.

8/21/08 EDIT: I've seen some people stay right at the 3rd bolt, avoiding the sweet (yet kinda powerful) lieback crux moves. If you do this, I don't think it's quite 5.10. The intended route is more to the left, up the steeper bulge. Either way is good, but be warned that there is probably more loose rock on the right side variation. Aug 16, 2008
Ended up climbing a bit differently that we thought, but it wound up being pretty darn good. Mostly a jug haul up a steep wall but there are a few smaller, hard to see, holds thrown in for your pleasure. Will likley end up being the most popular route here. Jul 23, 2008