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Routes in Lower Buckhorn Wash

Echoes 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2
Flapjack Tower T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Groovin' at the Beach T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Haagenschlong 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C1
I'm Rick James, Bitch S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
James Tower AKA The Lightblub T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Jamison Engineering T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Life During Wartime 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ R
Outhouse Tower - Mallory's Mountain Marmalade 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A1+
Short Stack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Soup Kitchen S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Whale, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wisdom Tooth - Cryptogramic Forest T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Aid, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: James Garrett and Leonardo Daghani, 5 April 2001
Page Views: 1,255 total, 11/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

On the South Face of this roadside attraction: Outhouse Tower. 3M, as expected, would turn out OK with some traffic and is probably free climbed quite regularly these days. Started with Layne Potter (his daughter's name is Mallory) who belayed me for hours, then finally finishing it with Leonardo from the Dolomiti who belayed me an equally long time and was too intimidated by the peeling Utah sandstone (he called it "like Marmolade"!), that I seconded it and cleaned it myself that day. I later climbed it and broke it into two pitches with Layne's son Sheridan who gave it his best at freeing it on a top rope, but maybe it was still too early? So, that's the story on that:

Pitch #1: From the ground, slab and face climb up passing a collector's sampling of fixed protection (some glue-ins) to a hand crack. Follow the hand crack until it ends at a 3 bolt hanging belay. Sandy. 5.9+, A1.

Pitch #2: Move right passing several bolts climbing black patina Navajo to the summit block headwall. Continue straight up to a mantle to the top. 5.9+, A0.

Rappel using the bolts atop the tower top from the route Chopped Sand.

Location

South Side of Outhouse Tower. OT is about 2.7 miles toward the San Rafael River Bridge from Scenic Byway Wall. A BLM public Outhouse is just to the north of the "tower".

Protection

Set of Camalots. QDs

Rappel Chopped Sand

Photos

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