Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: TR (led 7-18-08 by Brian Cabe and followed by Eric Hobday)
Page Views: 75 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

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Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details


Climb up, clip first bolt on Groom with a View. Clip second bolt with a double length sling, then step down and traverse back to the right. Ascend past a thin horizontal seam, to another, and climb up to the flaring crack, which gets not-as-flaring the higher you go. Finish at To Have and To Hold anchor.


Just left of To Have and To Hold. Rappel that route.


The lower middle of the route has very poor pro. Possible to place a shallow angle piton in the very shallow crack, and, tie it off in combo with a very dubious micro stopper. Above that, another thin horizontal crack takes a thin knifeblade with 4 really poor small stoppers which might protect the climb up to the flaring crack. .5 cam through 3 camalot protects the rest of the climb. Caution: initial cam placement low in the crack might not hold as the crack is very flaired down low. In combo with the poor pin/nuts, this is a serious possibly X rated lead. Be careful.