For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Poultry Pillar - Wedding Wall

Groom with a View S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Opuntia S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
To Have and to Hold S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
To Honor and Obey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: TR (led 7-18-08 by Brian Cabe and followed by Eric Hobday)
Page Views: 64 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: BLM Managed Lands at Castle Rocks PERMANENTLY CLOSED TO CLIMBING!! Castle Rocks State Park lands are OPEN TO CLIMBING Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Climb up, clip first bolt on Groom with a View. Clip second bolt with a double length sling, then step down and traverse back to the right. Ascend past a thin horizontal seam, to another, and climb up to the flaring crack, which gets not-as-flaring the higher you go. Finish at To Have and To Hold anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just left of To Have and To Hold. Rappel that route.

Protection [Suggest Change]

The lower middle of the route has very poor pro. Possible to place a shallow angle piton in the very shallow crack, and, tie it off in combo with a very dubious micro stopper. Above that, another thin horizontal crack takes a thin knifeblade with 4 really poor small stoppers which might protect the climb up to the flaring crack. .5 cam through 3 camalot protects the rest of the climb. Caution: initial cam placement low in the crack might not hold as the crack is very flaired down low. In combo with the poor pin/nuts, this is a serious possibly X rated lead. Be careful.

Photos

0 Comments

More About To Honor and Obey

Printer-Friendly