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Routes in Garden Party Wall

Can't Please Everyone S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dirty Love T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Illusionist, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Topiary S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 66 ft
FA: Bob D & Greg Hand
Page Views: 188 total, 2/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Jul 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The crux is getting over the roof and keeping it together for the next 3-4 clips. Great route...Maybe the best in the Sherwood Forest area.

Location

Start left of Topiary up a short corner leading to the roof.

Protection

Eight clips and green camalot for below the roof. Lower from a two bolt chain anchor.

Photos

slim

  5.11c
slim    
  5.11c
Interesting route. My first attempt it felt really, really hard, but I was paying too much attention to the 2nd bolt above the roof and trying to use it as a clue on which way to go over the roof. Big mistake. I was trying to figure out what was going on, as Bob/Greg's routes aren't generally stiff for the grade. I was pretty baffled. second time, just following the climbing, went much easier. If it feels really hard, take a step back and try something different - you are likely in left field....

The crack/jug under Bob's foot in the photo is caked in some sort of shit and pretty much unusable (for a hold and for gear as well). You can get a pretty good 0.75 Camalot out right though. The climbing above and below the roof was pretty good. Technical, delicate, and fun. Jul 14, 2013
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
 
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
 
OK, but far from the best at Sherwood, IMHO. Jun 18, 2012
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Excellent climbing. For what it's worth, even I was able to TR this route without falling. That may have been an illusion. Then, later in the day, I shot 1 under par at West Woods golf course from the tips. Anybody for golf? Jul 21, 2008