Type: Sport, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Bryan Burdo (1996)
Page Views: 1,344 total · 8/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Jul 20, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

This route has a harder crux than Chronic and adds 30 extra feet of balancy 5.11/12 climbing to an anchor above that of Chronic. A further extension above this offers 50 or so more feet of climbing with a couple of interesting cruxes and a harder grade, maybe .13c/d?

Location

Departs right from Chronic below the upper roof crux. According to lore, Illness ends at the first anchor above Chronic (which can also be reached directly from Chronic via Lizard Prince), while Extended Illness continues up to a second anchor for a 40m pitch (perhaps .13c/d). In any case, everyone calls the short version Extended Illness now. By climbing straight above Chronic to the same anchor(s), this would be called Lizard Queen (or King?). All of the linkups/extensions are very good regardless of their confusing nomenclature. A 70m certainly lowers from the first anchor; if the full extended pitch is done, one must pull the rope at one of the lower anchors.

Protection

Bolts. If the "extra extended" version is done, one will need to bring 5 quickdraws and possibly carabiners to leave at the top anchor bolts.

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