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Harvey's Wallbangers, Center

5.6, Trad, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.3 from 123 votes
FA: unknown
California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Lover's Leap > Hogsback > N Face

Description

The traverse on P1 is a tad brushy... You'll know you're on Center when you do this traverse. Going straight up would take you onto Harvey Wallbangers Right.

Location

Right of Deception. Climb up some 3rd/4th class slabs to an obvious LARGE pine tree to start P1. You can't miss it.

Protection

Gear. Nuts and Cams.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

First belay on Wallbangers center.<br> Baby rattler hanging out in the crack by the pin. Had to climb down then lower.
[Hide Photo] First belay on Wallbangers center. Baby rattler hanging out in the crack by the pin. Had to climb down then lower.
Hogsback North Face, seen from Rocky Canyon. Extreme zoom with a pocket phone means not very good quality, but enough to put some routes in context.
[Hide Photo] Hogsback North Face, seen from Rocky Canyon. Extreme zoom with a pocket phone means not very good quality, but enough to put some routes in context.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Josh C
Somewhere out West
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Not the best route here, but a fun outing if the other routes are crowded. The short first pitch has some dusty loose rock so be careful. After that, the rock quality improves quite a bit. Fun bulges at the top: a mantel followed by a bulge with a handcrack. Resist the temptation to bail to the right onto easier ground. Jul 17, 2011
JC w KC redux
[Hide Comment] My wife and I both thought this was a really fun route - some finger and hand jams at the start of p2, cool liebacking and mantles at the top. Josh is right on - after you pull the first 5.6 mantle the second 5.7 mantle is irresistible and very well protected. Jul 1, 2013
Boriss
Sacramento
 
[Hide Comment] On pitch one avoid climbing the "L'" Flake, instead climb the corner to the left of it. At the top of the Flake you make a traverse left on some dangerously loose rocks. They are in direct view of your belayer and other approaching climbers.

Also the belay on the top of pitch 1 has a loose vertical block, avoid using it but if you do be careful. Apr 19, 2015
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
 
[Hide Comment] The SuperTopo guide book says the pitches are 50' and 120', but a 60m rope is too short to link them. Probably the first pitch is actually a bit longer. Apr 20, 2015
James Amort
 
[Hide Comment] Did this one as well as the two to its right today, and from the tree you can easily do them each in 1 pitch with an 80m rope, which frankly makes these routes a lot more fun! I don't think a 70m would quite make it. Worth doing even if Deception and Knapsack are empty - I liked all 3. Apr 9, 2022
Ryan Crochiere
Lagunitas, Ca
 
[Hide Comment] We simuclimbed this route, I found it to be clean and pleasant. Lots of pro and good jamming. Great beginner route! Stay strait through the overhangs and it plays out 5.7 with good pro. May 25, 2022
Simon Leigh
SF, CA
[Hide Comment] I'd echo some of the comments from Manic Depressive as the approach "pitch" is the same. While it says 3rd/4th class slabs here, I definitely feel like some fifth class in there (I felt more comfortable on the first pitch of knapsack as a comparison). Pro is sparse on the approach as the cracks are often dirty or shallow or broken; so it'll be run out if you rope up. So I get why people solo it, but I certainly would not have wanted to. Just a heads up for those who are 5.6 climbers and may not be as comfortable as those soloing/simulclimbing the entire route who would think the approach is nothing ;) Jun 7, 2023