PRINT: Rock Climb Double Clutch, The Gunks

Double Clutch

5.9+, Trad, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 69 votes
FA: Dick Williams, John Hudson, Pete Geiser
New York > Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left

Description

P1: Start at the Eyebrow crack, climb to a horizontal under the roof and traverse right to a notch in the roof. Pull the roof at the notch. Continue to the Eyebrow belay.

P2: Climb straight up towards the triangle block in the roof above. Step left then back right until you are under the roof. Pull the roof just right of the triangle block. Good and very different in feel from the first pitch.

P1 is harder if you're short.

After pulling the crux, many people choose to rap from the obvious tree rather than continue to the Eyebrow belay.

Protection

Normal gunks rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Taking a look at the horizontal. #4 at my elbow.

Gail discovers a shorty variation left of the notch

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Michael Goodhue
Colorado

5.9+

Great excuse to use a #4 Camalot. Fits perfectly in the notch over the roof. Fun to throw for the horizontal from the edge of the roof with an incredibly safe fall onto your big ol cam. Nov 3, 2008

monk

5.9+

That notch over the roof is a cool feature. I don't remember what I used to protect that move, but I don't have a #4 Camalot and I know I had bomber gear. So if you don't have a giant cam, don't worry about it. This climb protects well with a normal rack.

BTW, I've seen this crux done at least three different ways - including throwing, as you say. The crux is height related, but I'm able to reach it (I'm 5'8"). Nov 5, 2008

Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY

Got spit off over and over again. At 5'2", I had a tough time throwing. I tried heel hooking, sticking my foot in the crack, took many many lead falls.

Just lead it again in summer 2014. I found an easier way to pull the move and did it with no falls. It's all about the feet! Jun 5, 2010

John Ely
Washington D.C.

Be sure not to miss the second pitch. A little round about but the overhang is interesting. Nov 20, 2012

Alpine Dreamin'
The Mighty Granite State

Threw my self at this for a while in fall of 2011.... Cant wait to get back at it. Definitely safe falls on the #4 Mar 6, 2013

Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY

Success!!! I figured out how to make the move. I lead this on Sunday and was pleased as punch to finish the climb. The traverse is a bit pumpy, the "move" is well protected by a number 4. Fun, short novelty climb. Jun 9, 2014

Rob Buels

With a 5'4" reach, I had to heel hook to get my shoulder up high enough to go up at the normal spot. Jul 21, 2014

Joel Ryan
Bishop, CA

Fun, short, bouldery. Jul 27, 2016

John M

Quite strenuous just to traverse to the crux! May 24, 2021

Michael Spiesbach
Boulder, CO

For the record the crack at the crux is a V shape and just kind of of tappers from bigger than a #4 to .5 so pretty much any cam you have will fit in it somewhere. Oct 26, 2022

Milt Strickler
Louisville CO

5.10a/b

I'm surprised that none of the posters above complained about what a sandbag Double Clutch is. Way back when, I bouldered the start multiple times and would climb off to the left above the crux bulge. But I had never done the rest of the route so I tried it with a belay. I was amazed that I couldn't do the crux overhang with the weight of a normal rack. I had to climb down and leave the rack on the ground and then climb the crux bulge without the rack. I dropped a loop of rope from a stance, hauled up the rack and completed P2. I can't imagine having to do that on a 5.9 overhang.

I think of two roughly comparable routes--- Jean and Beetle Brow Bulge--- and I think that Double Clutch is distinctly harder than both of these.
Just as Matinee and Coexistence will probably never be upgraded, the weight of tradition will probably also keep Double Clutch as a 5.9+ sandbag. Jun 21, 2023