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Routes in Sneed's Cory

Fire Eater Cafe S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Line S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Holiday T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mean People Suck S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mona S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nock, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Paws for Thought S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pop S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Skin Diver S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Spirit S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Star Fighter S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Straddler S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Terra-Tex S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
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Type: Sport, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 472 total · 4/month
Shared By: FrankM on Jul 18, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Stay to the right and lie-back the arete past 2 bolts. After the bolts climb the jugs to the anchor. It gets easy after the bolts but don't fall cause you'll be hurtin.


Right side of the formation you'll see the obvious arete with two bolts on face to the left. Rap chains up top, however DO NOT belay off the chains...their for rappelling only.


2 bolts to rap anchor.


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I found "lieback the arete" to be a bit difficult on this, there really isn't much to lieback on... The version pointed to me by locals is to climb up a series of cracks to the left of the bolts, clip the second bolt, and make a commiting move involving a heel-hook over to the right onto the arete. I found this a bit spooky, but it was fun (afterwards) Jan 29, 2009
Jorge Achata
Lima, Peru
  5.8 X
Jorge Achata   Lima, Peru
  5.8 X
I also find it committed on leading due to the long runoff between the second bolt and the chains. I'd try placing a stopper somewhere in the crack that runs up left of the second bolt for peace of mind. If you fall before the chains, I'm sure you can make it all the way to the ground. The first moves on this one are a lot of fun; if nothing else, top rope the hell out of it. Jun 4, 2012
El Paso, Texas USA
Lowell   El Paso, Texas USA
Correction: It's called the Nook

A #2 - #3 Nut or #0 Cam works well for the last part if you feel you need it. Jun 17, 2013

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