Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,029 total · 24/month
Shared By: CJ Gates on Jul 18, 2008
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

A mega classic for sure! As overhanging as this one is the climbing never gets as difficult as it looks. It is committing and scary on lead but it protects well and the holds are all there. Starts off climbing up easy terrain up to the roof. Plug in some cams or whatever and climb out on the diving board and go for the top. Very fun!! If you fall on the final head wall you will catch major air. - NOTE- It is hard to clean this route when the leader tops out and is best to anchor for the top and belay the second from there.

Location

To the right of Cruise Control. This is one climb here you can't miss.

Protection

Standard rack/ Anchors on top.

Photos

Brent Butcher
  5.9+
Brent Butcher  
  5.9+
bring a couple 1's and .75's and save a .75 for one of the last moves or run it out! Jun 8, 2012
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
This protects like a sport route. Manage rope drag before pulling roof, and you will be fine. Unique and fun, but not super classic. Dec 25, 2014
Brent Butcher
  5.9+
Brent Butcher  
  5.9+
The schmuck is wrong, line is ultra classic! Feb 28, 2015
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
 
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The first time I did this I felt very similar to "the schmuck." After repeating this route today, I agree with Brent. This route is pretty damn fun. The rock quality and jugs on the roofs is stellar. Feb 13, 2016
Aubrey Miller
eugene . OR
  5.8
Aubrey Miller   eugene . OR
  5.8
Super fun and a little exposure up top which is rare for an Arkansas route. Takes gear well but if I did it again I wouldn't protect the bottom/back of the roof, rope drag got pretty bad at the anchors but luckily its 5.6 climbing up there. A must do if you're in the area. I thought some of the routes at Mag were a little sandbagged but this one felt easier than 5.9 to me.

P.S.
I'm not sure what "protects like a sport route" means, the only bolts I saw were at the anchor. 4 days ago