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Routes in Crag Central

Cruise Control T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
French Connection S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Junior Achievement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right to Flight/ The Nose T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Scarlet Begonias S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sonya Come Home S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Viva Las Vegas S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,745 total, 24/month
Shared By: CJ Gates on Jul 18, 2008
Admins: TylerKC

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13 Opinions

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Description

A mega classic for sure! As overhanging as this one is the climbing never gets as difficult as it looks. It is committing and scary on lead but it protects well and the holds are all there. Starts off climbing up easy terrain up to the roof. Plug in some cams or whatever and climb out on the diving board and go for the top. Very fun!! If you fall on the final head wall you will catch major air. - NOTE- It is hard to clean this route when the leader tops out and is best to anchor for the top and belay the second from there.

Location

To the right of Cruise Control. This is one climb here you can't miss.

Protection

Standard rack/ Anchors on top.

Photos

Creed A
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Creed A   Salt Lake City, UT
 
The first time I did this I felt very similar to "the schmuck." After repeating this route today, I agree with Brent. This route is pretty damn fun. The rock quality and jugs on the roofs is stellar. Feb 13, 2016
Brent Butcher
  5.9+
Brent Butcher  
  5.9+
The schmuck is wrong, line is ultra classic! Feb 28, 2015
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
This protects like a sport route. Manage rope drag before pulling roof, and you will be fine. Unique and fun, but not super classic. Dec 25, 2014
Brent Butcher
  5.9+
Brent Butcher  
  5.9+
bring a couple 1's and .75's and save a .75 for one of the last moves or run it out! Jun 8, 2012