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Routes in Cielo Crack Crag

Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack") T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad
FA: Kevin Brown, Kevin Steele, Steve Tucker
Page Views: 1,018 total · 9/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Jul 17, 2008
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Starts in an obvious cave and heads out a roof. Solid hand-jams lead to a tough transition into a wide crack. Grunt through off-fists to hands, then power through a fingers finish.

Location

Gap Crack is the only obvious and climbable crack in the cliff band. Not hard to find.
DISCLAIMER: GAP CRACK CRAG IS NEAR PRIVATE LAND. BEHAVE THYSELF.

Protection

The bottom protects well with a #4 or 5 Black Diamond, the middle takes hands to tight hands pieces, and the top swallows finger-sized cams. Not a long route, but takes a full range of gear. As of this posting (7/17/08), there is no rap anchor or any other amenities besides a large oak tree set about 15 feet back from the edge. If you want to top-rope it, build your anchor on the tree, then use a directional at the top of the climb.

Photos

SB locals took me there back in 1987 and were calling it Pakalolo. Jul 19, 2008
Jon Hanlon   SLO
I remember checking this out in '91 and getting rejected by the poison oak! I always imagined returning with a Tyvec suit but never did. Nice work! Jul 21, 2008
Serial Crusher
A house
Serial Crusher   A house
The roof, lip, and wide section climb great. The finger exit moves were pretty dirty. Definitely worth doing, especially with the sub-2 minute approach. Jun 1, 2014

More About Cielo Crack (a.k.a. "Pakalolo", a.k.a. "Gap Crack")

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