Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft (24 m)|
|Page Views:||2,929 total · 18/month|
|Shared By:||Tom Rangitsch on Jul 17, 2008|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Super steep climbing up a finger and hand crack to a difficult boulder problem pulling over a roof. The first half is mostly slopey jugs outside the crack. Start with a yellow c3 or similar size to protect the first difficult move, pulling a small overhang on slopers. Next, place a green c3 or equivalent from a good stance. Just above this is a great nut placement, it's actually been fixed for the last few years. Next go to a left slopey crimp outside the crack, get a crappy right hand jamb in the crack and crank up to a better left hold/jug left of the crack. High feet get you to a right hand jug from which you place a blue camalot or similar in a pod just below your hand. Next get a heel hook with the right foot outside the crack and reach high to a great hand jamb with the left. You clip a bolt here, which was placed to keep the rope out of the crack.
The crux is next. Reach really far to a right thumbs down finger lock, throw a left heel on the lip of the overlap and crank up to thin right handjamb. Most people then match in an undercling below the handjamb to readjust. There is an optional grey camalot placement here. You next reach really high over the second tier of the roof to a decent right hand finger lock. Then match left hand, shimmy up and over the last bulge and finally get to a bomber left hand finger lock. That's my blow by blow.
The last 20-30 feet is decent but pumpy 5.11 fingers in a corner.