Patience Face
5.12a,
Sport, TR, 115 ft (35 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 194
votes
FA: First lead: Derek Peavey, Matt Samet, Paul Glover. First TR: Samet, Glover. Variation in the groove TR'ed earlier by Rui Ferreira, et al.
Colorado
> Boulder
> Flatirons
> Central
> Dinosaur Rock
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
Description
This is a 35-meter lead on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, right off the Mallory Cave trail. It climbs nice tan and maroon stone down low to a long black streak/rib that goes to the top of the wall. You must ABSOLUTELY USE A 70-METER ROPE FOR THIS CLIMB!!!
Originally done as a toprope, this is now a 14-bolt lead. Climb the first five bolts of The Shaft to a resting pod, then step right to the other, wider black streak/tufa thing. Follow this past nine more bolts all the way to the top of the wall on nice dark rock, with a handful of intricate cruxes separated by 5.10/5.11 climbing and some other rests. Definitely a voyage...Double-bolt anchors are a bit left at the lip so the rope will run better; unclip the last draw while lowering to reduce wear on your cord.
There are a few no-hands rests ("pods") here and there, but plenty of cruxes in between, including one at the top. We named all the pods, too -- seemed funny at the time.
Pre Pod, Pinkler Pod, Love Pod, Post Pod....
Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to install new climbs and update old ones in the Flatirons.
Location
This is slightly east (left) of center on the north face of Dinosaur Rock.
Protection
14 bolt to double-bolt anchors.
[Hide Photo] A direct variation to Patience Face exits straight up the water groove as opposed to climbing out right. As climbed, this variation is between The Shaft to the left and the exit of Patience Face. T…
[Hide Photo] Doug Haller on the start of Patience Face. Photo from November 2007.
Broomfield, CO
Nederland, CO
Innsbruck, AT
I hate to say it, but we did it with a 60m. We got down to the top of the large rock to the right of the start with about 1 foot to spare.... Be careful out there and use a 70m. Jun 22, 2012
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
Fort Collins, CO
Longmont, CO
Many rests allows for an Onsight.
At the top, I would traverse right to the top anchor of Milk Bone and clip the draws down.
It helped a lot. Oct 12, 2014
Durango, CO
Broomfield