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Patience Face

5.12a, Sport, TR, 115 ft (35 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 194 votes
FA: First lead: Derek Peavey, Matt Samet, Paul Glover. First TR: Samet, Glover. Variation in the groove TR'ed earlier by Rui Ferreira, et al.
Colorado > Boulder > Flatirons > Central > Dinosaur Rock
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a 35-meter lead on the north face of Dinosaur Rock, right off the Mallory Cave trail. It climbs nice tan and maroon stone down low to a long black streak/rib that goes to the top of the wall. You must ABSOLUTELY USE A 70-METER ROPE FOR THIS CLIMB!!!

Originally done as a toprope, this is now a 14-bolt lead. Climb the first five bolts of The Shaft to a resting pod, then step right to the other, wider black streak/tufa thing. Follow this past nine more bolts all the way to the top of the wall on nice dark rock, with a handful of intricate cruxes separated by 5.10/5.11 climbing and some other rests. Definitely a voyage...Double-bolt anchors are a bit left at the lip so the rope will run better; unclip the last draw while lowering to reduce wear on your cord.

There are a few no-hands rests ("pods") here and there, but plenty of cruxes in between, including one at the top. We named all the pods, too -- seemed funny at the time.

Pre Pod, Pinkler Pod, Love Pod, Post Pod....

Many thanks to the Flatirons Climbing Council, OSMP, and the Access Fund for making it possible to install new climbs and update old ones in the Flatirons.

Location

This is slightly east (left) of center on the north face of Dinosaur Rock.

Protection

14 bolt to double-bolt anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kevin showing his Patience.
[Hide Photo] Kevin showing his Patience.
Heating up
[Hide Photo] Heating up
LVW getting a quick shake and a clip on his onsight.
[Hide Photo] LVW getting a quick shake and a clip on his onsight.
Midway on Patience Face.
[Hide Photo] Midway on Patience Face.
A direct variation to Patience Face exits straight up the water groove as opposed to climbing out right. As climbed, this variation is between The Shaft to the left and the exit of Patience Face. This is around 12+. 
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Photo from November 2007.
[Hide Photo] A direct variation to Patience Face exits straight up the water groove as opposed to climbing out right. As climbed, this variation is between The Shaft to the left and the exit of Patience Face. T…
Doug Haller on the start of Patience Face.
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Photo from November 2007.
[Hide Photo] Doug Haller on the start of Patience Face. Photo from November 2007.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Haas
Broomfield, CO
[Hide Comment] Nice work, Matt. I always looked at this thing and knew it should get done but was always scared off by the lack of gear. Glad to see it's a quality line, even on TR. Jul 18, 2008
Rich Farnham
Nederland, CO
[Hide Comment] Are you guys going to apply to bolt this? I was looking at it today and it looks fantastic! I'd be happy to help, if that would make the difference. Jul 6, 2009
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
 
[Hide Comment] Patience Face is an accurate name. Be patient when resting and deciphering beta and success will be yours.

I hate to say it, but we did it with a 60m. We got down to the top of the large rock to the right of the start with about 1 foot to spare.... Be careful out there and use a 70m. Jun 22, 2012
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Glad to finally see this bolted! It has been a long time coming since I first threw a top rope on this back in November of 2007. Patience pays off at the end. Sep 1, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Really fun route and a great warmup for the 13s in the area. Feb 9, 2014
Rob Bailey
Fort Collins, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Honestly, I think this one is better than The Shaft. Super fun!! Thank you, Matt. Apr 7, 2014
[Hide Comment] A voyage indeed! IMO, this is the best 12a sport climb in the Flatirons. Climbing above the bolt at the first and hardest crux is exciting. Thanks to Matt for another great route. May 27, 2014
michalm
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Somebody left a draw on the last bolt. If it is yours and you can identify it, I will return it to you. Jul 7, 2014
Bruno Hache
Longmont, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Excellent warm-up for Milk Bone.
Many rests allows for an Onsight.
At the top, I would traverse right to the top anchor of Milk Bone and clip the draws down.
It helped a lot. Oct 12, 2014
Nolan Robertson
Durango, CO
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Tricky, confusing, and definitely a great name to represent the style of climbing on this. Mar 23, 2017
Xavier Rojas
Broomfield
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Only three stars cuz it's a bit wander-y. Feels like two typical Front Range 12a's stacked on top of each other. Apr 11, 2021