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Routes in The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)

Beta Maniac TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cactus Box T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gook Magic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Honest Abe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I Wanna Be Sedated TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
It Just Turns Into A Seam! TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
La Petit Mort TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ninja Turtle Crack TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pull My Finger TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Revolution Whenever TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ring of Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 4 T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route 8 TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shamuvin' TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slim Pickens TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
True Grit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Theo Takeda (late 90s?)
Page Views: 35 total, 0/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Jul 16, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This climbed up the obvious S-shaped hand crack, then pull some technical maneuvers straight up the face above the S-crack. The climb is much harder than it looks.

Location

This route is on the right side of the crag approximately 70 feet to the right of Cactus Box.

Protection

2-bolt anchor

Photos

Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10d
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.10d
The sling on the bolts has been replaced with new sling. The hangers are homemade and a bit sharp on the inside of the bolt hole so the new sling is padded by chunks of the old sling. It would be best to replace the hangers with new hangers should anyone feel inclined. This anchor also serves Ninja Turtle Crack (if we climbed the "correct" line). May 2, 2011
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
Hey George - I don't remember bolting any anchors at Estante/Crack House. Maybe I did, though. It's certainly possible. Mar 22, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10d
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10d
This climb has a 2-bolt anchor, though the ratty rope/sling probably ought to be replaced, with chains, ideally.

I think I heard somewhere that Walt W. put the anchors in here a while ago, so people in the houses above would be less aware of climbers below.

Rack with nuts & cams up to #2 camalot, with 2 each of #1 camalot helpful. Mar 16, 2009
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
FA on this was by Theo Takeda in the late 90s? Jan 1, 2009