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Routes in The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)

Beta Maniac TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cactus Box T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gook Magic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Honest Abe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I Wanna Be Sedated TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
It Just Turns Into A Seam! TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
La Petit Mort TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ninja Turtle Crack TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pull My Finger TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Revolution Whenever TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ring of Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 4 T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route 8 TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shamuvin' TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slim Pickens TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
True Grit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Walt Wehner- TR, Josh Smith- lead?
Page Views: 581 total, 5/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Jul 16, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is perhaps the best route at the cliff, and may be the best hard crack climb in White Rock. Climb some thin face and crack moves for 20 feet to a 10 foot roof split by a hand/finger crack. Powerful moves lead out of the lip, then it eases up to the top.

Location

This route is about 20 feet to the right of True Grit.

Protection

No Bolts, anchor with gear.

Photos

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
This climb has a 2-bolt anchor with quicklinks. The anchor might benefit from these being replaced with chains.

This roof is amazing and way bigger than Lens Roof at the Overlook- wish I could climb it. Getting to the lip is powerful and hard already, and the next 2 moves are still not clear to me.

Peter Gram wrote me about this area. Paraphrased, Mike Schillaci, Cam Burns, and Peter, as well as several others, climbed at this cliff a couple of times ca. 1990. They thought they were the first to find it and there was no evidence of climbing there, but you just never know! It's not really in an out of the way location. They did the really obvious climbs: a central section of the longest face ("A Picnic with the Piranhas" 5.11-ish), and a thin roof crack, which he thought was probably the line subsequently rediscovered as Ring of Fire, and if so, is likely the true FA. Someone ought to drag Peter back down there to make sure its the same line, though. Mar 16, 2009
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
I cleaned and TR'd this line, but never led it. I think Josh Smith was the first to do the lead.

I still have a pile of info on most of this stuff sitting around somewhere, maybe at some point I'll dig it out and upload it. Jan 1, 2009