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Routes in The Crack House (aka Estante Edge)

Beta Maniac TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Cactus Box T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Gook Magic T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Honest Abe T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I Wanna Be Sedated TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
It Just Turns Into A Seam! TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
La Petit Mort TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ninja Turtle Crack TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pull My Finger TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Revolution Whenever TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ring of Fire T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route 4 T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Route 8 TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Shamuvin' TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Slim Pickens TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
True Grit T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Walt Wehner and Mick Schein, 1996
Page Views: 237 total · 2/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Jul 16, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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This rout ascends black rock just to the right of some bubbly basalt knobs. The first 15 feet are the crux, then some fun moves lead out of a scoop and continue up an overhanging wall to the top.


If you are facing the Crack House, this is the fourth line in from the left which is approximately 50 feet from the beginning of the crag.


No bolts, anchor with gear.


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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
I didn't like the looks of the pro potential at the start of this route and went up an alternate start about 8 feet to the right. It's a small finger crack in a smooth corner with an awkward, height dependent move to get into the super positive finger crack. A couple more fingery moves lead to mantle on top of the big block joining the standard route about half way up.
There's a huge, loose block just right of the exit that shifted as I pulled on it. I "X"ed it with chalk. The anchor situation on this route kinda blows...lots of loose stuff up there. I'll take my drill and some hardware next time to rectify this. Mar 15, 2009
I did the FA of this in 1996 or so with Mick Schein. Not sure if I did Jason's start or just ran it out at the beginning.

All of the routes here could really use some bolted anchors, IMO. Some of them could probably even use some protection bolts here and there. Mar 21, 2009

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