PRINT: Rock Climb Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral, Devil's Lake

Cleo's Needle Southwest Dihedral

5.6, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 3 from 53 votes
FA: ??
Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > W Bluff 03 - Cl… > Cleopatra's Needle

Description

Start in the Dihedral on the Southwest side of the needle. It is the left most crack on that side. Continue up through overhang. Make an awkward move or 2 and continue up to the small ledge at the base of the summit block. Move around to the left (west) and continue up on easy holds. There is no pro for the last 15 ft here. Move up and clip the big ring on top. Don't forget to stand up and enjoy the view.

Location

On the southwest side of the needle. Start in the left most crack in the dihedral.

Protection

Small cams, small wires, small to medium tricams

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Doug leading Cleopatra's Needle via her underbelly... the "Southwest Dihedral/Arete" combo. My vote for best route on Cleo's Needle.

Ring on top of the needle as of Nov 13, 2016. Still very solid, but we simulrapped anyway.

On Lead

Southwest Dihedral

This has gotta be the best way to the top. You start in the dark, shaded forest and when you get to the final block you break through into the light.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin

5.6

When me and my partner Paul reached the summit, we had a safety meeting. With each cough you could feel the block wobble. We freaked out a bit at first and then just starting geeking out, which didn't help with the wobble either. After a few minutes of laughter and enjoying the view, we rapped down. Jul 16, 2008

Tradiban

LOL! Been that way for years! Welcome to the club. Jul 16, 2008

Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY

What's been that way for years? Safety meetings? Jul 16, 2008

Tradiban

Well, I'm not quite sure what a "safety meeting" is, but I can say that damn block has been freaking people out for some time now, and the club
I'm referring to is the club of being freaked out. Climb on!
I don't think Mr. Sanders trolls this site but if he's out there, but Ben I wish I had a photo of the look on your face when we were up there and he discovered the whole damn thing was moving!

P.S. I've just been informed what a "safety meeting" is. Thank you to Vince for enlightening me :) And, yes it's been that way for years. Jul 17, 2008

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin

5.6

Jay, I think both have been that way for years. LOL!

I wish I had a camera so Paul could see the look on his face. Sheer terror. Then visions of the hole block falling and taking us with it! Jul 17, 2008

Tom Hanson

It's been rocking since at least the late seventies Jul 18, 2008

Kris Gorny

And one day it's gonna go 'boom'... Jul 23, 2008

Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY

Andrew,

It's been rocking for eons (or since the late 70's--same thing). The single bolt used for rapping off the top should be more of a concern.

Seriously, though, the route is worth doing. It's a classic DL experience. Nov 21, 2008

Tradiban

Just the last block I believe. Nov 24, 2008

Jay Knower
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY

Yeah. Nick's right. It's unnerving but I never got the feeling like it would fall off. Nov 25, 2008

James Schroeder
Fort Collins, CO

It's unnerving, but I don't think it's going anywhere... Nov 25, 2008

John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin

5.6

It's more like the last 10ft or so that is wobbly. But I dont think it's going anywhere either. Just unnerving to feel it move when your hooked up to it. Apr 2, 2009

Burton Lindquist
Madison, WI

Do you know that once way back in time Cleo's Needle fell down. The Army Corps of Engineers erected a big crane and hoisted it back up onto it's resting place and as well placed the large iron spike that keeps it all level..... Whoops....... the 1st of April was yesterday........ Apr 2, 2009

jay.kalamazoo
kalamazoo, mi

i got the top and the my second was coming up. the tower starts to wiggle....i think...i'll jump into those trees if this thing falls...that will help break my fall. And then i realize....i'm anchored into the top of the needle...and if it goes, i'm going with it.

much like the gendarme at seneca, climbing this thing is a must and a exercise in faith. Oct 19, 2009

Mr. Mix
Sauk City, WI

Dam, Melissa and I were up on top of this yesterday and she tells me she can feel the whole thing shift in the wind. I tell her to stop being a baby, it is all in her head. I don't think it's important to mention to her I was wrong. However, that little bolt in the rap ring from the sixties is a bit unnerving. Great climb though. Mar 18, 2012

Patrick Brewer

I finally got on the Needle yesterday via a few different routes. The view was excellent and I even spotted a peregrine falcon. My brother said he could feel the wobble but I disappointingly did not.

That pin and ring are definitely not the original one. (I'm sure the '64 is a tribute to the first pin placed.) Does anyone know when the newer pin and ring were placed though, or by whom? Since it is the only piece between you and the deck, it'd be nice to know about it's origin. Apr 6, 2012

Paul Campbell
Waukesha, WI

5.6

Oh... its original! Apr 7, 2012

Cals Chers
Albuquerque, NM

Last weekend (03 August 2013) we had eight (8) people on the needle. It's not going anywhere anytime soon. The ring's a bit scarier (especially when it rotates), but I guess you could sling the thing if you're really concerned. Aug 10, 2013

Doug Hemken
Delta, CO

The ring bolt was placed in the 1960s by one of those Stettner boys ... ask around the CMC about it! At that point, they had already been climbing there for a few decades.

The Wisconsin State Historical Society has a photo of someone on top of the Needle from the 1910s by H.H. Bennett wisconsinhistory.org/whi/fu… Aug 10, 2013