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The Norseman
5.12b,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 4
votes
FA: Mark Cartier
Washington
> South-W & Tacoma
> Columbia Gorge
> Beacon Rock
> S Face
Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open)
Details
The South Face and access trail is closed from Feb. 1st through July 15th, depending on peregrine falcon nesting. Portland Area Climbers Coalition, Washington Climbers Coalition, and the Access Fund are coordinating on this issue. Disregarding this closure will harm their efforts to adjust it and their relationship with land managers.
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
The NW face and West face routes remain open.
See Closure section below for more details.
Description
This route ascends up the buttress on the right side of Big Ledge. The crux comes just a few bolts below the anchors and involves tension moves around the corner. Yet, the route has a difficult section above the second bolt too. The position is amazing and the bolts are just far enough apart to keep you on your toes. . With more ascents this already quality climb could be amazing
Location
The best way to approach The Norseman is to climb either Free For All into Dod's Jam, or just Dod's Jam. Once you reach the Big Ledge, above the tree pitch on Dod's Jam, look for the bolted climb on the right buttress/arete of the ledge system.
Protection
Bolts. The first 15-20 feet takes small cams or nuts.
[Hide Photo] Tim Bemrich working The Norseman on a perfect fall evening.
[Hide Photo] Danielle working through the upper crux
Portland
Bend, OR
Portland, OR
The first 15' of Steppenwolf is easy climbing to a fixed nut. From there, move right to the arete and clip 6 old, but ok looking bolts. The final traverse left to the anchor is contrived but also puts you easily back on the ledge. Oct 19, 2020