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The Norseman

5.12b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
FA: Mark Cartier
Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Beacon Rock > S Face
Warning Access Issue: CLOSURES: South and East Faces (NW & W Faces Remain Open) DetailsDrop down

Description

This route ascends up the buttress on the right side of Big Ledge. The crux comes just a few bolts below the anchors and involves tension moves around the corner. Yet, the route has a difficult section above the second bolt too. The position is amazing and the bolts are just far enough apart to keep you on your toes. . With more ascents this already quality climb could be amazing

Location

The best way to approach The Norseman is to climb either Free For All into Dod's Jam, or just Dod's Jam. Once you reach the Big Ledge, above the tree pitch on Dod's Jam, look for the bolted climb on the right buttress/arete of the ledge system.

Protection

Bolts. The first 15-20 feet takes small cams or nuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tim Bemrich working The Norseman on a perfect fall evening.
[Hide Photo] Tim Bemrich working The Norseman on a perfect fall evening.
Danielle working through the upper crux
[Hide Photo] Danielle working through the upper crux

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

peachy spohn
Portland
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] I revisited the Norseman yesterday and for anyone climbing at this grade it is one of the best in the PDX area. It definitely has the BEST position of any 5.12 (a beautiful rounded arete 300 feet off the deck with the Columbia River right there.) It's hard for the grade, but very well protected. Plus, if you get on it soon, you will have the advantage of all my chalk. Get on it! PS, I heard from Jim Opdycke that the route was originally named Sacajawea. Jul 28, 2011
Dan Bookless
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Didn’t send or finish it. None the less, I took the liberty of giving this climb 4 stars simply for the position and movement. Not too many 5.12 sport routes in the area are 300 feet off the deck. Aug 23, 2019
Andy Traylor
Portland, OR
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Excellent route! Every bit as good as Excalibur but with more defined sequences and perhaps better flow. The grips are super unique--lots of positive holds and cool pinches. The position is absolutely spectacular! I'm flabbergasted this line does not see more ascents. It takes some work to get to the base, but its so worth it.

The first 15' of Steppenwolf is easy climbing to a fixed nut. From there, move right to the arete and clip 6 old, but ok looking bolts. The final traverse left to the anchor is contrived but also puts you easily back on the ledge. Oct 19, 2020