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This Is Almost the Place

5.11d, Trad, 60 ft,  Avg: 2.6 from 13 votes
FA: Steve Hong and Karin Budding
Utah > Wasatch Range > Little Cottonwo… > Green Adjective Gully
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Right slanting crack at the entrance to the Green A Gully on the west side.
The crack seems to slant just enough so that you can't really get any leverage off of your left foot in the crack.

Varied (pumpy) jams into a short technical sequence. Pull into the OW slot and fanangle your way up the rest of the crack to an anchor at the tree.

Location

from the route The Green Adjective, walk up an into the Green A gully. This is one of the first routes you will encounter on your left heading up the canyon.

Protection

a purple TCU might give you a bit more headspace for the first slabby move you encounter. A new #5 camalot will bump most of the way up the second half of the route.

in between, a single set and some stoppers should do you just fine.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Busting the crux.
[Hide Photo] Busting the crux.
Past the technical and into the physical.
[Hide Photo] Past the technical and into the physical.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

d-know
electric lady land
[Hide Comment] bouldery crux and decent pro
deserves two starz.


good route that could
use a fixed anchor. May 23, 2009
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] How do you start this? Scary runout face moves above a flatish boulder into the thin vertical cracks or do you go a bit further up in the gully an gain the main part of the crack by following a left slanting ramp? Oct 22, 2009
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] This climb is now equipped with a rap anchor set up about 5 feet below the old slung tree. Fixe ring bolt, and a Fixe or Metolius hanger (can't remember) with 2 quicklinks. All stainless steel. Oct 3, 2014