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Slapshot

5.12a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 31 votes
FA: Jim Yoder and Matt Kerns
Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Inner Walls > Toxic - Tang Area

Description

A line that climbs a lot like a Gritstone route.

Begin with one of two cruxy start options off the deck: Either start directly below the arete and make a deadpoint slap with your left hand using a severely polished left foot, or choose to traverse in from the left. Either way you chose, it is pretty difficult to get established.

Once you have gained access to the blunt arete, follow a series of insecure moves up the arete using a large amount of core tension, open-hand slaps and pinches, and inventive heel/toe hooking. Get a no hands rest at the ledge and then finish the final section of the climb using the same arete wizardry you used on the first half, albeit on the other side. 

After the first 30 feet, however, the first half of the route becomes somewhat contrived, as it is very easy to escape around to the right of the arete and into the safety of the 5.8 crack. However, don't be dissuaded by this contrivance as the upper arete is high quality climbing and more sustained than the lower arete. 

Location

The route starts on the blunt arete directly to the left of the Even Steven hand crack, the route then continues up the hanging arete to the left of the Toxic Shock handcrack. The anchors are located on the face a few feet to the left of the Toxic Shock anchors. 

Protection

11 Quickdraws (9 Bolts + Anchors) and 1 Alpine Draw to clip to the webbing on the horn on the midway ledge. an optional small/midsize cam can be used to protect clipping the 5th bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Toxic - Tang Area
[Hide Photo] Toxic - Tang Area
Bo Earle, TRing Slapshot (12a). On the upper (11+) section.
[Hide Photo] Bo Earle, TRing Slapshot (12a). On the upper (11+) section.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Drewsky
 
[Hide Comment] FA Jim Yoder, Matt Kerns.

The 2nd pitch is a very good climb in its own right and ascends the arete to the left of Even Steven and Toxic Shock. Low angle, balancey climbing past bolts leads to strange encounters with ledges and bulges higher up. Descend from the slung tree atop the corner (hard .11b). This can be accessed in one pitch from the ground quite easily by climbing the crack start to Even Steven, which requires some gear (thin finger-size to #2 Camalots). Dec 31, 2008
Dance Party
Seattle, Wa
[Hide Comment] This seems to have been re-bolted. Jul 1, 2014
Lucas
 
[Hide Comment] An exceptional climb on great rock that stays cool all summer. May 12, 2019
Princess Puppy Lovr
Rent-n, WA
[Hide Comment] Is going to the ledge with the webbing supposed to be 12a or all the way is 12a? I thought the bottom half was pretty hard but still easier than sucker punch. I mostly wanna know if I should wait until Toxic shock is empty and try the whole thing. Jun 3, 2021
saign charlestein
Tacoma WA
 
[Hide Comment] The hardest moves are on the lower half, but the climb is far from over, and the top half is similar difficulty. Don't cut yourself short by just climbing the bottom half, as the top is the best part IMO, and the bottom is basically a highball boulder. Easily climbed while people are on toxic shock as long as the ropes are managed correctly. Probably the softest 12 in Index Sep 27, 2021
Hank Thompson
Leavenworth, WA
 
[Hide Comment] The opening compression boulder problem is awesome and were it a standalone boulder would be one of the best problems in the area. The quickly lived power of the lower crux also compliments the sustained sequency slab moves of the upper arete quite nicely, creating a great route that can be climbed during the hot days of summer.

I do agree with Saign that this is probably the softest 12a at index, or at least most accessible (based on my admittedly very limited experience at the grade at Index). That being said I think the crux is a solid V4 and the upper arete felt a semi-height dependent 11c so do what you will with that information. Aug 3, 2022