A line that climbs a lot like a Gritstone route.
Begin with one of two cruxy start options off the deck: Either start directly below the arete and make a deadpoint slap with your left hand using a severely polished left foot, or choose to traverse in from the left. Either way you chose, it is pretty difficult to get established.
Once you have gained access to the blunt arete, follow a series of insecure moves up the arete using a large amount of core tension, open-hand slaps and pinches, and inventive heel/toe hooking. Get a no hands rest at the ledge and then finish the final section of the climb using the same arete wizardry you used on the first half, albeit on the other side.
After the first 30 feet, however, the first half of the route becomes somewhat contrived, as it is very easy to escape around to the right of the arete and into the safety of the 5.8 crack. However, don't be dissuaded by this contrivance as the upper arete is high quality climbing and more sustained than the lower arete.
The route starts on the blunt arete directly to the left of the Even Steven hand crack, the route then continues up the hanging arete to the left of the Toxic Shock handcrack. The anchors are located on the face a few feet to the left of the Toxic Shock anchors.
11 Quickdraws (9 Bolts + Anchors) and 1 Alpine Draw to clip to the webbing on the horn on the midway ledge. an optional small/midsize cam can be used to protect clipping the 5th bolt.
The 2nd pitch is a very good climb in its own right and ascends the arete to the left of Even Steven and Toxic Shock. Low angle, balancey climbing past bolts leads to strange encounters with ledges and bulges higher up. Descend from the slung tree atop the corner (hard .11b). This can be accessed in one pitch from the ground quite easily by climbing the crack start to Even Steven, which requires some gear (thin finger-size to #2 Camalots). Dec 31, 2008
Seattle, Wa
Rent-n, WA
Tacoma WA
Leavenworth, WA
I do agree with Saign that this is probably the softest 12a at index, or at least most accessible (based on my admittedly very limited experience at the grade at Index). That being said I think the crux is a solid V4 and the upper arete felt a semi-height dependent 11c so do what you will with that information. Aug 3, 2022