5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 29 votes
|Type:||Sport, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Jim Yoder and Matt Kerns|
|Page Views:||2,744 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Duca on Jul 15, 2008 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
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A line that climbs a lot like a Gritstone route.
Begin with one of two cruxy start options off the deck: Either start directly below the arete and make a deadpoint slap with your left hand using a severely polished left foot, or choose to traverse in from the left. Either way you chose, it is pretty difficult to get established.
Once you have gained access to the blunt arete, follow a series of insecure moves up the arete using a large amount of core tension, open-hand slaps and pinches, and inventive heel/toe hooking. Get a no hands rest at the ledge and then finish the final section of the climb using the same arete wizardry you used on the first half, albeit on the other side.
After the first 30 feet, however, the first half of the route becomes somewhat contrived, as it is very easy to escape around to the right of the arete and into the safety of the 5.8 crack. However, don't be dissuaded by this contrivance as the upper arete is high quality climbing and more sustained than the lower arete.
The route starts on the blunt arete directly to the left of the Even Steven hand crack, the route then continues up the hanging arete to the left of the Toxic Shock handcrack. The anchors are located on the face a few feet to the left of the Toxic Shock anchors.