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Humpty Dumpty
5.12a,
Sport, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 24
votes
FA: Gramont, Martin Atkinson, Todd Skinner
New Mexico
> Enchanted Tower
> Humpty Dumpty Wall
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon
Details
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
The second to rightmost of four routes on the Humpty Dumpty wall, this one has the best rock and most striking line. Follow good jugs and slopers up steepening rock to a bouldery crux getting past the fourth bolt. Then pump up a few more juggy moves past a fifth bolt to the anchors. It's easier to top out before clipping the anchor.
Protection
Five draws
[Hide Photo] Heading into the steep crux section. August 2013.
(from Samet/Jett) Oct 23, 2010