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Routes in Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks

A Side Crack V0- 4-
B Side Crack V1- 5-
Buffalo Creek Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buffalo Creek Spire South Face A0
Classic Arete V3-4 6A+
Fear of Slabs V0- 4-
One Last Fix T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun Express T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoke a Fatty T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Unknown V-easy 3
deGaulle's Nose aid route T C1+
deGaulle's Nose free route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 25 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 543 total, 5/month
Shared By: Michael Murphy on Jul 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is a short, thin, trad crack close to FS 550. I named it Shotgun Express because it is short and I found a shotgun shell at the base. If you know the real name and FA info, please e-mail. I find it hard to believe I got the FA, since it is so close to the road. I found this boulder after getting lost trying to find A-hole rock. While some may consider it a high-ball boulder problem, it is better led. The bottom doesn't lend itself to a crash pad and the crux is at the top.


Go south on the Colorado trail for about 150 yards. Follow a old grown over jeep trail that veers left (south) for about 5-10 minutes. 13S0476906 4354473 on my GPS.


Nuts, TCUs, to a #0.75 Camalot. I used 2 #1 Camalots for the anchor.


If this were longer, there would be a freaking line at the base of it. It is absolutely outstanding and worth doing. The only downside is that it is very short. It is worth the hike if you are already in the area. Just west of the parking spot nearest deGaulle's Nose is another parking spot. There is an old doubletrack road heading south into the forest, take it. When it forks, stay right. This should get you to the rock. It will be the first formation of any real size that you encounter. May 27, 2012
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
I don't know if I have ever seen that one, where about is it? Aug 31, 2008
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
I lead this about a year ago. I call the area Tweaker Rocks because there was a guy living there cooking meth about 6 years ago. I call the line to the right One Last Fix 5.9. It was my last climb of the day after bouldering a few hours in the area. Jul 14, 2008