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Bound in Blood

5.8, Sport,  Avg: 2.3 from 64 votes
FA: Stewart Green, Martha Morris, Mike Heinrichs, Brian Shelton, Sept. '04
Colorado > Colorado Springs > Red Rock Canyon… > Whale
Warning Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! DetailsDrop down

Description

(From Stewart Green's guide) Technical face climbing with small pockets and thin edges to a delicate ending slab.

Location

This lies between The Good Stuff and the Big E - shares the anchors with Big E. It starts just to the left of a large tree.

Protection

6 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Deb at what seemed like the crux. The right foot is on a iffy smear.
[Hide Photo] Deb at what seemed like the crux. The right foot is on a iffy smear.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Erik Tullberg
Colorado Springs
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I would suggest 5.8 or 5.9 as the climb's actual rating, though the FA was judged a 10a. Jul 14, 2008
Stewart M. Green
[Hide Comment] This one has gotten way easy. 5.8 is the new rating. Jul 15, 2008
Erik Tullberg
Colorado Springs
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Thanks, Stewart. I was hoping that you'd see this. I'll make the change. Jul 16, 2008
Arlo F Niederer
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Thought this one was a bit heady.

The crux is clipping the third bolt from a tenuous stance. Nov 22, 2015
Brandon A
  5.8
[Hide Comment] I agree that this could be a 5.8 or 5.9. Definitely caught myself searching for my (left at home) chalkbag on this one. The crux 1/3 of the way up is a thinker for the unskilled slab climber. Sep 18, 2022
Robby Purple
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Tenuous moves required a significant amount of effort, and I felt like I was going to slip off the whole time. The rock was pretty sandy. I usually don't climb low-angle friction slab, but I do climb 5.12, and this climb was a challenge for me. I also have large fingers and sweaty hands, so the small holds and lack of chalk probably didn't help my impression. Oct 2, 2022
Matt Sellick
 
[Hide Comment] The anchor bolts on this are in need of replacement. They have been eroding the rock, and there is a gap behind the hangers. Oct 10, 2023
PPCA Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance
[Hide Comment] We updated the anchor and added Mussy hooks. Please consider a donation to the PPCA or ASCA for further hardware updates. Dec 17, 2023