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Routes in West Face - Center (Flintstone Slab)

Angel's Fright T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Angel's Wing T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Barney TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bedrock T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Betty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blankety Blank T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cary Granite T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Dino T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fred T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fright Night T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Great Gazoo, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Human Fright T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Slate T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Quarry, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Switchbacks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Switchbacks, Direct Start T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Twinkletoes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Yvonne Gaines, July 1994
Page Views: 1,290 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 14, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb Switchbacks, Direct Start to it's bolt and continue up to the horizontal crack where that route cuts sharply left. Move up and right slightly and clip a second bolt just left of a shallow left-facing corner and make funky balance moves (crux) to gain the top of a giant flake. Rap off from two bolts with rings or continue straight up via The Quarry or by cutting right slightly to the chains on Blankety Blank.

Location

Center of Flintstone Slab, about 50' right of Fred.

Protection

2 bolts, gear to 1.5", 2 bolt anchor/rap

Photos

Sdm1568
Ca
  5.9
Sdm1568   Ca
  5.9
Fit a .2 yellow X4 under the first bolt, no knee required - good times! May 14, 2015
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
  5.9+
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
  5.9+
Pretty radical move for 5.9, but I think it's a fair rating. No knee required for me; plenty awkward though. Apr 18, 2015
Guy Keesee
Moorpark, CA
Guy Keesee   Moorpark, CA
If you can do this without using your knee... its 5.11 Jul 15, 2014
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
  5.9
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
  5.9
You can also fit a purple mastercam in at the start. The flake below the bolt will easily take a range of hand sized gear. Aug 16, 2012
Richard Shore
  5.9+
Richard Shore  
  5.9+
The two bolts adequately protect this climb. I brought along a 1" piece, but you would place it no more than 3' below the second bolt, which is an easy clip above. Good fun with a sporty start. Oct 7, 2011