Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Treasure Island

Blood Ruby S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buried Treasure S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pirate Booty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell
Page Views: 2,788 total, 24/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Jul 14, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


29 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Wow! What a climb! It starts off easy enough for several moves. Then you have to make a deadpoint (technical crux) with your left hand from good jugs and crimpers to a tiny little crimp. But it doesn't let up much after that. Make some more moves on crimpers to a diagonal slot/pocket (clip the 4th bolt from there), do another couple moves with bad feet and then lunge for the big (but not quite as big as you'd like) jug under the chains. Feel around for some big jugs up higher and clip the chains.

The right arete is off limits. The easiest way is to the left, anyway...

Location

The right-most of the two routes on the east side of Treasure Island.

Protection

5 bolts to chains.
Austin Hancock
Provo, UT
  5.11d
Austin Hancock   Provo, UT
  5.11d
Short, but could very well be the best line in the canyon in my opinion. Oct 2, 2017
Canyon Copa  
 
Best 11d in the canyon. Really solid moves that are definitely easier with a longer reach. Clipping the fourth bolt off of two fingers on a tiny crimp was quite the mental battle. Clipping the fifth bolt was not much easier because of the footwork. I had high expectations and it didn't disappoint. Jun 2, 2012
Thomas Holmes
Utah
  5.11d
Thomas Holmes   Utah
  5.11d
I have nothing but good things to say about this route, well worth the approach. Apr 10, 2012
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
This was a ton of fun. The deadpoint was something I had never really done outside of the gym before and it felt great when I got it. Awesome route! Jun 16, 2011
Tanner Wise
  5.11d
Tanner Wise  
  5.11d
I loved this climb! I was just looking at it thinking how cool it would be, so I decided to try it and what a gem. so happy I tried it and got the onsight! great climb on awesome crimps. Jun 8, 2011
Clay Allred
Moab UT
 
Clay Allred   Moab UT
 
Awesome route. I was really stoked on it with all the hype and I must say I wasn't disappointed. By the time I got around to my redpoint it was dark so I sent it via the Petzl headlamp which I think made it 12a :) Also, I pulled off a good hold at the bottom but don't worry, it's still only 10 something below the crux. Aug 26, 2008
Thanks for pulling off that loose block at the top. We did the route again today and clipping the chain is so mellow now. That's the problem these days with putting in new lines. Everyone wants to complain that a route isn't clean enough but no one is willing to do some brushing themselves. So kudos to you dude! Aug 23, 2008
Justin Raymond
Orem, Utah
  5.11d
Justin Raymond   Orem, Utah
  5.11d
Loved the route! It had some good reaches in it(at least the way i did it). Didn't see any blood on the holds. That was a good thing... Must do route!


BTW.....
I helped clean out the top holds. One the size of a soccer ball came loose on me. I knocked it off along with all the dirt. Jul 21, 2008
Darren Knezek
  5.11d
Darren Knezek  
  5.11d
Great route guys! One of the better .11d's in Rock Canyon! Jul 16, 2008
Great thin crux! I agree that if it were longer it would warrent another star, but it is worth the short hike. A good trail is in the planning stage but the landing is plush! If you like small holds this is a good route to get on. Jul 14, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I think this is one of the better routes I've established. Continuously fun and difficult climbing. The name comes from some early redpoint attempts. I cut my fingers on some of the sharp holds but kept on climbing, getting blood on most of the holds. Don't worry, the blood is mostly gone now... Jul 14, 2008